Travel Journal of Western Bulgaria

Travel Journal of Western Bulgaria

Bulgaria (Bulgaria) is not a large country, with an area of 110,000 square kilometers and a population of about 7 million. Many people have heard of it, but few truly understand it, often only having a vague impression. Although it is a typical Eastern European country, when people mention Eastern Europe, they tend to think of Poland, Hungary, or Romania, rarely mentioning Bulgaria. Similarly, although Bulgaria is located on the Balkan Peninsula, when people talk about the Balkans, they seem to focus solely on the former Yugoslav states, as if Bulgaria has little to do with it. Still, Bulgaria does have some presence in the world.

For example, it is known for producing the world’s finest rose oil, earning it the title of “Land of Roses.” Additionally, those familiar with ancient Roman history or movies might recognize the name Spartacus, the famous gladiator who was born and raised in Thrace, an ancient region that corresponds to present-day Bulgaria.

Bulgaria’s natural conditions are excellent. It is located in Southeastern Europe, a land of fertile plains, a mild climate, and beautiful mountains. The Danube River, often referred to as the “Mother of Europe,” flows along its northern border, creating a natural boundary with Romania. To the west, it borders Serbia; to the south, it faces the Aegean Sea from Eastern Thrace. In the east, it directly faces the Black Sea, but this semi-enclosed sea has limited access to the Mediterranean. The Turkish Straits, controlled by others, are the only connection to the open seas, posing a strategic challenge.

Bulgaria once had direct access to the Mediterranean through the Aegean Sea, but it lost control of Eastern Thrace to Greece, which wanted to dominate the Aegean. This historical loss remains a point of regret. If we look at Bulgaria’s history, it once enjoyed significant geographical advantages. However, over time, these advantages were squandered due to its own mistakes.

Travel Itinerary

Traveling in Bulgaria generally follows three main routes: western, central, and eastern. For this trip, we chose the western route, which includes the capital Sofia, Rila Monastery, the Seven Rila Lakes, Pirin National Park, and the Bansko winter ski resort. This route offers both scenic views and fun activities, making it one of the most popular choices.

Since we entered Bulgaria after visiting neighboring Serbia and North Macedonia, the western route fit naturally into our plans.

Kyustendil: The Capital of Western Bulgaria

After driving from North Macedonia into Bulgaria, we crossed the Gueshevo border checkpoint and arrived at our first stop—Kyustendil. This city, the capital of Kyustendil Province, is one of the most important urban centers near Bulgaria’s western border. Though considered significant, Kyustendil only has a population of several tens of thousands. Its importance mainly lies in its strategic location at the foot of the Hisarlaka Mountain on the Kyustendil Plain, historically serving as a vital transportation route between the Danube River and the Mediterranean.

The Thracians established settlements here as early as the pre-Roman period. In the 1st century AD, the Romans began building warehouses and military fortresses, transforming Kyustendil into one of the region’s most important towns, second only to Sofia. Later, the area came under the control of the Byzantine Empire, which governed it for five centuries, using it as a regional administrative center. During the 13th and 14th centuries, Kyustendil successively fell under Serbian and Bulgarian rule and even served as the capital of the Kingdom of Macedonia for a time.

Kyustendil is renowned for its scenic beauty, famous mineral springs, and agricultural production. Our next destination, the Rila scenic area, also falls within the jurisdiction of Kyustendil Province.

Vladimir Dimitrov Gallery
Ticket Price: 6 Lev

This art gallery, named after one of Bulgaria’s greatest artists, Vladimir Dimitrov, is a tribute to his legacy. Dimitrov lived and worked for many years in the village of Sishtovtsi in the Kyustendil region. The gallery features eight exhibition halls spanning a total area of 1,200 square meters. It houses and permanently displays over 3,600 works by Dimitrov and other prominent Bulgarian artists.

Church of St. George

The Church of St. George is the best-preserved medieval church in southwestern Bulgaria and is recognized as a national cultural monument. It is also one of the most important cultural and historical tourist attractions in the country. Built in the 10th century, the church houses precious frescoes and various ancient decorations. A monument inside features a rare, large Byzantine painting. According to legend, Tsar Michael III of the Second Bulgarian Empire passed away at this very site.

Dzhamia Ahmed Bey

The Ahmed Bey Mosque is one of the most important historical buildings in Kyustendil, also known as the “Christian Mosque.” It is located in the heart of the city. However, the mosque no longer serves as a place for Muslim worship and is now used as an exhibition hall within the Kyustendil Museum.

Uspenie Bogorodichno

The Church of the Dormition of the Mother of God (Uspenie Bogorodichno) is the second-oldest church in Kyustendil, following the Church of St. George. It was built during the leadership of Bishop Costandi and is located within the walls of St. Nicholas Methodius.

During the Renaissance, this church became a center for the people of Kyustendil in their struggle for an independent Bulgarian Church. It also served as a hub for local cultural and educational activities. The city’s first church school, established in 1821, was located in the church’s cemetery.

Pilgrimage to Rila Monastery

The Rila Monastery is the largest monastery on the Balkan Peninsula and one of Bulgaria’s most renowned UNESCO World Heritage sites. More importantly, it is the sacred site where Bulgaria’s first hermit, St. Ivan of Rila, lived, practiced monasticism, and was buried. For locals, visiting this monastery is a pilgrimage, while for tourists, it offers a chance to appreciate its rich history and cultural heritage.

Reaching the monastery is no easy task. It is located in the Rilska Valley within the Rila Mountains, the highest range in the Balkans, and requires a long journey. Fortunately, we traveled by car, so navigating mountainous roads was not an issue for us.

The monastery was originally founded by St. Ivan of Rila in the mid-10th century near a cave where he once lived. It was later relocated to its current site. In the early 14th century, the monastery was destroyed by an earthquake but was subsequently rebuilt with the addition of a fortified tower. The final reconstruction took place in 1860, which is why the monastery now resembles a meticulously designed medieval fortress.

The complex consists of 11 churches, 20 residential buildings, a 22-meter-high defensive tower, and a semi-circular four-story structure, all built across different time periods. At the center of the monastery stands the Church of the Assumption, built in the 19th century. The church features three large halls, three domes above, and a surrounding colonnade, creating an impressive and stunning visual effect.

The monastery also includes the St. Luke Church, the Dormition of the Virgin Mary Chapel, a monastic school, and the St. Ivan Chapel, which houses the tomb of St. Ivan of Rila and is built within a natural cave.

Throughout its history, Rila Monastery has played a vital role in Bulgaria’s religious and social life, serving as the country’s most important religious site. As a masterpiece of Bulgarian Renaissance architecture, it preserves and promotes Bulgaria’s cultural heritage. Particularly during periods of foreign domination, the monastery became a symbol and pillar of national identity.

In 1961, Rila Monastery was transformed into a national museum, and it now houses over 600 precious historical artifacts, including frescoes and icons created by master artists, as well as relics from the medieval monastery and memorials of St. Ivan of Rila. Its library holds over 16,000 books. The monastery attracts numerous visitors every year, including Pope John Paul II, who once made a pilgrimage to this sacred site.

In 1983, Rila Monastery was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It stands today as a cultural hub, combining architecture, art, religion, and education all in one.

The Capital: Sofia

Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria, serves as the country’s political, economic, cultural, and transportation hub. It is the only city in Bulgaria with a population exceeding one million, making it the heart and microcosm of the nation. Visitors to Bulgaria rarely miss the opportunity to explore this vibrant city.

Bulgaria’s former name was Serdika, with a history that stretches back over two millennia. The name Sofia, meaning “wisdom,” was adopted in the 14th century. The city’s history mirrors that of the nation—one marked by a turbulent past. It has been subjected to the rule or influence of the Greeks, Persians, Romans, Byzantines, Ottoman Turks, and the Soviets, with each leaving their distinct historical footprints. As you walk through Sofia’s streets today, you’ll encounter Byzantine-era Orthodox churches alongside Turkish mosques. Socialist architecture, with its grand and imposing style, stands in contrast with the remains of European classical structures. Sofia presents a blend of diverse cultures while maintaining its unique national character, offering both ancient and modern elements.

Sofia’s climate is mild, making it an ideal place to live. The city is distinguished by its lush greenery. Throughout Sofia, you’ll find numerous parks and gardens adorned with elegant sculptures and monuments, along with more than 600 flower-filled neighborhood parks. Bright flowerbeds and lush green lawns are common sights, lining the streets and alleys. Nearly every household’s doorstep or windowsill features vibrant flowers, filling the air with fragrant scents. It’s evident that the residents have a deep love for flowers, and the entire city feels as if it is enveloped in a floral embrace, living up to its reputation as a garden city.

Both in the city and the surrounding areas, you can also find thousand-year-old thermal springs, known as the “water of longevity.” These crystal-clear, sweet-tasting waters are beloved by locals and visitors alike.

Due to the damage inflicted by past wars, Sofia’s city center is relatively small, with only a few ancient buildings remaining. Notably, two structures stand as the city’s oldest surviving monuments: the Church of St. George, built in the 2nd century, and the Church of St. Sofia, dating back to the early 4th century.

The city’s central square is undoubtedly Sofia’s beating heart, with major streets radiating from it in all directions. Around the square, you’ll find the government building and the National Art Gallery, while nearby attractions include the Museum of the Revolution and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. Adjacent to the cathedral is the tomb of Ivan Vazov, one of Bulgaria’s most celebrated writers.

We stayed near the square, and most of our day was spent exploring the square itself and the nearby landmarks.

Tsar Osvoboditel Monument

The Tsar Osvoboditel Monument was erected in 1907 to honor Russian Tsar Alexander II, who liberated Bulgaria from 500 years of Ottoman rule. It was designed and built by Arnaldo Zocchi, a sculptor from Florence. The monument stands on Alexander II Boulevard, in front of the National Assembly Square. Behind it is the InterContinental Hotel Sofia, and in front lies the National Assembly building. The central feature of the monument is an equestrian statue of Alexander II, which has led locals to refer to it simply as “The Horse.”

National Gallery for Foreign Art

The National Gallery for Foreign Art, located behind the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, is housed in a classical building designed in the Neo-Renaissance style. This structure previously served as an office building and once housed the royal printing office. Established in 1985, the gallery showcases artworks from around the world, with a special focus on folk and cultural art. It also features a selection of contemporary art and sculptures, distributed across four floors and a total of nineteen exhibition halls.

Ticket Price: 6 Lev

Central Sofia Halls

The Central Sofia Halls, also known as the Sofia Central Market Hall, were built in 1911 in the Neo-Renaissance architectural style. It functions as a bustling market filled with a variety of shops. The second floor offers clothing and handicrafts, while the first floor features fresh flowers and food stalls. The basement houses fast-food restaurants and fragrant coffee shops. The hall is spacious, bright, and impeccably clean, with the entire market running in an orderly fashion.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is one of Sofia’s most famous tourist attractions and iconic landmarks. Located in the city center, it is a Neo-Byzantine-style building and serves as the seat of the Bulgarian Patriarch. Its grand scale makes it the second-largest cathedral on the Balkan Peninsula, surpassed only by the Church of St. Sava in Belgrade.

The cathedral was built following the end of the Russo-Turkish War to honor the soldiers who sacrificed their lives for Bulgaria’s liberation. It is named after Russian Prince Alexander Nevsky. The foundation stone was laid in 1882, with the main construction taking place between 1904 and 1912. The cathedral covers an area of 3,170 square meters, with a cross-shaped floor plan capable of accommodating 10,000 people, showcasing its impressive grandeur.

The bell tower stands 53 meters tall and houses 12 bells with a total weight of 23 tons, the heaviest weighing 12 tons and the lightest 10 kilograms. The central golden dome, rising 45 meters high, shines brightly with its gilded surface, earning the cathedral the nickname “Golden Dome Church.”

The interior is exquisitely decorated with luxurious materials, including vibrant Italian marble, Venetian mosaics, German metals, Brazilian agate, and white jade, all reflecting the church’s opulence. The central dome features the Lord’s Prayer inscribed in gold, with a massive chandelier suspended beneath it. The entire atmosphere exudes solemnity, grandeur, and elegance.

Saint Sofia Church

Ticket Price: Adult 6 Lev

Saint Sofia Church is located next to the renowned Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. Although it appears smaller and simpler in comparison, it carries an air of ancient charm and simplicity. With a long history, it is the second oldest church in Sofia. The current main hall, along with the two eastern towers and a domed tower, was constructed during the mid-6th century under the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. It was built on the site of a 2nd-century Roman theater.

At the time, the church attracted worshippers from all directions, and its prominence even outshined that of the city itself, leading to the city being named after the church. During the Ottoman Empire’s rule, the church was temporarily converted into a mosque. After the mosque was destroyed by an earthquake in the 19th century, the site was restored as a church.

Outside the church, the Eternal Flame altar was established in 1981 to honor the soldiers who sacrificed their lives in the wars of the 20th century.

Saint Nicholas Russian Church

Saint Nicholas Russian Church, commonly known as the Russian Church, is a Russian Orthodox church with over a century of history. Construction began in 1882 and was completed in 1914. It was built on the site of a former mosque and named after Tsar Nicholas II of Russia.

The church features classic Russian architectural elements, including white exterior walls and onion-shaped domed towers. The central dome rises 19 meters, and all five domes are gilded with pure gold, gleaming brilliantly. The church’s bell was donated by Tsar Nicholas II himself.

In the basement, the tomb of Archbishop Seraphim Sobolev, who passed away in 1950, is preserved. The site draws many believers who come to pray at his resting place.

Sofia Public Mineral Baths

Ticket Price: 6 Lev

The Sofia Public Mineral Baths, now home to the Regional History Museum of Sofia, is located behind the Banya Bashi Mosque. It is a classical European building, blending Byzantine and Neo-Renaissance architectural styles, and stands as one of Sofia’s iconic landmarks.

The original bathhouse was built in the 16th century but was damaged by wars and later restored for use. It operated until 1986, when it was closed due to outdated facilities. Today, the site functions as a museum, showcasing Sofia’s past through photographs and artifacts.

Church of St. Nedelya

The Church of St. Nedelya is one of the most prominent historical buildings in the center of Sofia and among the largest Eastern Orthodox churches in Bulgaria. With a long history dating back to the 10th century, the church has undergone multiple destructions and restorations.

Originally, the church was a wooden structure built on a stone foundation. It was not until the mid-19th century that architect Ivan Boyanin redesigned and rebuilt it entirely with stone. The church’s dome was destroyed in a bomb explosion in 1925, which caused around 200 casualties, but it was restored in 1933.

Inside the church are the tombs of Bishop Joseph of Sofia and Archbishop Partenius. Most notably, the remains of Serbian King Stefan Milutin (1282–1321) are also preserved here, which led to the church being referred to for some time as the “Church of the Holy King.”

Saint Sofia Monument

The Saint Sofia Monument is an iconic sculpture in the center of Sofia, located near the Serdika Metro Station. For nearly half a century, this site was known as Lenin Square, dominated by a statue of Lenin. In 2000, it was replaced by the statue of Saint Sofia, designed by Bulgarian artist Georgi Chapkanov.

Wearing a crown in the shape of city walls, Saint Sofia represents the ancient Greek goddess of wisdom. Today, she is regarded as the guardian of the city, and this new monument has become a modern symbol of Sofia.

President Office

The President Office of Bulgaria is located on Independence Square and is part of the Largo complex, built during the socialist era, reflecting a distinct Soviet architectural style.

The highlight for visitors is the changing of the guards ceremony at the entrance, which takes place every hour and attracts many onlookers. Although the guards may give the impression of strict security, the President Office is sometimes open to the public for tours. On rare occasions, the president himself participates in welcoming visitors, offering the lucky few a chance for a personal meeting.

Crystal Garden

Crystal Garden is a small urban park in the center of Sofia, but it is widely known for its Crystal Bar, a popular gathering spot for local artists, actors, painters, musicians, and other creatives. It is said to have played a significant role during the democratic changes in the early 1990s.

Within the park stands a monument to Stefan Stambolov, a former prime minister of Bulgaria and a renowned reformer. The area surrounding the park is home to several notable landmarks and institutions, including the Central Military Club, the National Theatre, the Youth Theatre, the Satirical Theatre, the Ministry of Finance, and the Ministry of Defense.