Romania is a country of moderate size—not too big, not too small. It covers nearly 240,000 square kilometers and has a population of about 20 million. In the context of Europe, with many smaller nations, Romania ranks among the top ten in terms of size and population.
Located in Southeastern Europe, Romania is connected to the Balkan Peninsula and shares borders with five other Eastern European countries. To the north is Ukraine, with Moldova to the northeast, Hungary to the northwest, Serbia to the southwest, and Bulgaria to the south, separated by the Danube River. To the east, Romania borders the Black Sea, with a 245-kilometer coastline, earning it the nickname “Pearl of the Black Sea.”
Romania’s terrain is diverse, with plains, mountains, and hills each making up roughly one-third of the landscape. This varied geography offers a striking mix of natural beauty. The Carpathian Mountains, known as the “Backbone of Romania,” run through the heart of the country, standing alongside the blue Danube River and the shimmering Black Sea, which together form Romania’s three national treasures.
Crossing the Danube from Ruse, Bulgaria, brings you to Giurgiu, Romania. From there, it’s less than 100 kilometers to Bucharest, a drive of about an hour and a half, though you’ll need to factor in time for bridge tolls and waiting in line. First, you’ll pay a 2-euro toll for a car to cross the bridge. Then, upon entering Romania, you’ll need to purchase a highway vignette for 4 euros, which covers one week of driving. It’s easy to buy this vignette at a gas station right near the border crossing. If you drive without one, you could face a 200-euro fine.
Bucharest lies on the Wallachian Plain in southeastern Romania, where the Dâmbovița River, a tributary of the Danube, flows through fertile lands. Known as the “Little Paris” for its elegance, Bucharest is the largest city in Romania and serves as its capital. It is the country’s political, economic, and cultural hub, as well as a key transportation center where several major highways converge, making travel to and from the city convenient.
Bucharest evolved from a small rural village into the capital of a principality and eventually the nation’s capital. The earliest settlement appeared around 700 years ago, and by the 15th century, it had grown into an important fortress in Wallachia. After withstanding Ottoman invasions, the fortress was named Bucharest, meaning “City of Joy,” in celebration of its resistance. The town officially became a city in 1574 and was declared the capital of Wallachia in 1659. When Romania unified in 1862, Bucharest became the national capital, entering a phase of rapid development.
During World War II, the city suffered heavy damage but was quickly rebuilt, and with the postwar economic boom, it expanded further. Today, Bucharest is a blend of old and new, with distinct neighborhoods—historic quarters alongside modern districts. The lively city center is home to many churches, libraries, theaters, and museums. Throughout the city, you’ll also find numerous parks, gardens, and green spaces, with sprawling forests surrounding the suburbs. Bucharest’s lush greenery and flowers have earned it the nickname “Garden City.”
As a soccer fan, my personal memory of Bucharest is tied to Steaua Bucharest, the city’s once-glorious football club that made history in European competitions. The team achieved a remarkable undefeated streak across 104 domestic league matches and 15 cup games, crowning its success with victories in the 1986 European Cup and Super Cup. Although the club’s glory days are now a thing of the past, the memory of its dominance remains a bright spot in Romania’s sports history.
A tour of Bucharest can start at the National Museum of Art of Romania, located in the city center. Nearby are Revolution Square, the Central Committee Building, the Memorial of Rebirth, and the iconic Romanian Athenaeum. From there, head to the Palace of Parliament, a massive structure that’s a must-see. Afterward, you can explore University Square, the National Museum of Romanian History, and the scenic Cismigiu Gardens. As evening falls, stroll through the Old Town, where you’ll find plenty of local restaurants for dinner or street-side bars to enjoy Bucharest’s vibrant nightlife.
My initial impression of Bucharest was mixed. Arriving during rush hour, the roads leading into the city were packed with cars, moving at a snail’s pace. Surprisingly, aggressive driving is common here, with little regard for road etiquette—a stark contrast to the polite driving culture typical in many other European countries. The traffic congestion gave the city an air of chaos, and the buildings along the streets looked somewhat drab, perhaps because many were rebuilt after the war and still show signs of wear. Some corners are also covered in graffiti, adding to the rough aesthetic.
One particularly striking aspect of Bucharest is the presence of stray dogs. Packs of them can appear unexpectedly, wandering through neighborhoods and parks. The city’s disorganized and unkempt areas left me wondering if this really was the capital of a European country.
However, Bucharest still retains much of the charm of an old European city. The architectural styles are diverse, ranging from ancient Roman and Byzantine influences to French Baroque and Rococo buildings from the Middle Ages. There are also many large Soviet-style buildings from Romania’s socialist era, whose bold, imposing designs reflect the spirit of that time and serve as reminders of the country’s history.
The Old Town seems to be one of the few places in Bucharest that has remained largely unchanged. The few blocks you pass through on foot from University Square all belong to this historic area. The streets are paved with stone, and on both sides, rows of old European classical-style buildings line the way, exuding the charm of medieval Europe with a deep sense of nostalgia and elegance.
Traces of Romania’s socialist past are also easy to spot, with Soviet-style buildings scattered throughout. However, the real stars of today’s Old Town are the bustling street shops and lively establishments that define the area. Fashionable boutiques, vibrant artisan shops brimming with handcrafted goods, and aromatic restaurants serving delicious local flavors now dominate the streetscape. Neon-lit bars create a captivating nightlife scene, and cozy cafes dot every corner, drawing countless visitors to pause, explore, and immerse themselves in the lively atmosphere of this charming part of the city.
The National Museum of Art of Romania, formerly the Royal Palace of Romania, was originally built in 1812 but was later destroyed by fire. In 1936, King Carol II commissioned architect Nicolae Nenciulescu to rebuild the palace, resulting in the current structure. After the abolition of the monarchy in 1948, the palace’s right wing was designated as the National Museum of Art, while the left wing became the office of the State Council.
The museum is divided into two main sections: the National Gallery and the European Art Gallery. The National Gallery showcases a wide range of Romanian art, including paintings, sculptures, and textiles from the Middle Ages to the present day. The European Art Gallery, on the other hand, features works by European masters from the 15th to the 20th century, including renowned artists such as Rembrandt, El Greco, and Bruegel.
The Romanian Athenaeum is perhaps Bucharest’s most striking neoclassical landmark. It was designed by French architect Albert Galleron and completed in 1888. To this day, the Athenaeum serves as the city’s premier concert hall and is home to the George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra.
With its grand dome, ornate façade, and elegant columns, the Romanian Athenaeum stands as a symbol of the city’s cultural heritage. Inside, the richly decorated interior and excellent acoustics make it the perfect venue for classical concerts, including the renowned George Enescu Festival, which draws music lovers from around the world.
This museum is one of the few well-preserved examples of European classical architecture in Bucharest, with a grand and majestic design. However, as a national-level history museum, the exhibits feel somewhat limited, with several rooms still closed to the public.
The current exhibitions are concentrated in three main galleries, showcasing Romania’s history through stone sculptures, treasures, and artifacts. Particularly impressive are the luxurious gold ornaments and exquisite jewelry from the royal collection, which reflect the opulence of the monarchy. Another highlight is the replica of Trajan’s Column, illustrating Romania’s deep historical connection with the Roman Empire.
St. Anthony Church, also known as the Church of the Annunciation of St. Anthony, is the oldest church in Bucharest. It was built between 1545 and 1554 by Mircea Ciobanul, who was also buried there after his death. For centuries, the church served as a royal chapel, hosting the coronation ceremonies of many monarchs and princes over the past 300 years.
Not far from the church are the remains of the old royal palace. Both the church and the palace endured two major fires, in 1611 and 1847. Interestingly, while most of the surrounding structures were destroyed, St. Anthony Church miraculously survived both times. This remarkable survival has added an air of mystery to the church, enhancing its unique historical and spiritual significance.
Memorial of Rebirth (Memorialul Renașterii)
Standing in what is now called Revolution Square, in front of the former Romanian Communist Party Central Committee building, the Memorial of Rebirth is a giant monument commemorating the 1989 revolution. The design is highly abstract and not exactly known for its beauty. It features a black iron mass at the top, a pool of red at the base, and several stylized human figures, likely symbolizing the bloodshed and sacrifices of the revolution.
The revolution began in December 1989, when protests broke out in Timișoara, a city in western Romania. The military’s violent suppression of these demonstrations only ignited nationwide anger, leading to mass protests aimed at overthrowing Nicolae Ceaușescu and the communist regime. The movement quickly spread to Bucharest, where over 100,000 people gathered in the square in front of the Central Committee building. Ceaușescu, still confident in his authority, attempted to address the crowd from the balcony, only to be met with jeers and boos, forcing him to retreat in humiliation.
With opposition growing on all sides, Ceaușescu and his wife fled the capital, but their escape was short-lived. They were captured by members of the hastily formed National Salvation Front and executed the same day. From the start of the protests to the execution of the presidential couple, the entire revolution lasted less than ten days.
Looking back, most of the political transformations in Eastern Europe during the 1990s were relatively peaceful. However, Romania’s experience was marked by a violent revolution, highlighting just how unpopular Ceaușescu’s rule had become. The Memorial of Rebirth stands as a reminder of that pivotal moment in Romania’s history, honoring the sacrifices made during the struggle for freedom.
The University of Bucharest is a public, comprehensive university and one of the most prestigious higher education institutions in Romania. Founded in 1864, it was the first university established in Bucharest and is now the second-largest university in the country, after the University of Iași.
The University of Bucharest houses various faculties, including Geography, Chemistry, Literature, and History, offering a wide range of academic programs. Over the years, it has trained numerous distinguished professors and researchers from around the world. Additionally, many of Romania’s key figures—such as presidents, prime ministers, ministers, and members of parliament—are among its alumni, underscoring the university’s significant role in shaping the nation’s leadership.
University Square (Piața Universității)
University Square is not only the square of the University of Bucharest but also the central square of the city and one of its most iconic landmarks. It holds deep historical significance as the starting point of the 1989 Romanian Revolution, where the final victory over Ceaușescu’s dictatorship was achieved, marking the end of the regime.
Today, the square is one of the most popular gathering spots in Bucharest, bustling with life. Surrounding it are several notable buildings, including the University of Bucharest, the National Theater, the Colțea Hospital with its 18th-century church, the Șuțu Palace, the Bucharest Municipal Museum, and the InterContinental Hotel.
Beneath the square lies a large underground passageway that connects to various shops, snack bars, and the entrances to the city’s metro system, making it a vital hub for both locals and tourists exploring Bucharest.
The Bucharest Municipal Museum, located in the heart of the city, is a beautifully designed museum that offers a comprehensive journey through the city’s history. Its exhibits span from the Paleolithic era to the socialist period under Ceaușescu, showcasing a wide range of artifacts. These include vintage clothing, antique furniture, old tools, weapons, household items, and various objects related to Bucharest’s past.
The museum also features several artworks created by renowned Romanian painters, adding an artistic dimension to the historical collection. Visitors should note that taking photos requires an additional fee of 3 euros.
Arcul de Triumf (Triumphal Arch)
Bucharest’s Arcul de Triumf bears a striking resemblance to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, almost as if it were a replica. It was constructed in the mid-1930s to commemorate Romania’s participation in and victory during World War I.
The war was a pivotal event for Romania, marking more than just military success. It secured the country’s full independence from the Austro-Hungarian Empire and resulted in significant territorial gains from Hungary and Bulgaria. Romania also unified with the principality of Transylvania, forming the modern Romanian state. In many ways, Romania as we know it today is a product—and beneficiary—of World War I.
Palace of Parliament (Palatul Parlamentului)
Tickets: Standard tour – 40 RON, Full tour including underground levels – 45 RON
The Palace of Parliament is undoubtedly Bucharest’s most eye-catching landmark. With a total area of over 330,000 square meters, it is the second-largest administrative building in the world, second only to the Pentagon in the United States. The structure consists of 11 above-ground levels and 3 underground levels. Originally called the People’s Palace or Republic Palace, it now serves as the home of the Romanian Parliament.
This massive structure is a must-see for most visitors to Bucharest—not only because of its sheer size and architectural grandeur but also for the historical significance it carries. For many Romanians, however, the Palace of Parliament symbolizes Nicolae Ceaușescu’s excessive ambition and failure. Built during some of the country’s harshest economic times, the project began in 1984 and, by the time Ceaușescu was overthrown in 1989, it had already cost an estimated $2 billion. While the exterior was complete, the interior remained unfinished when the regime fell.
Some proposed demolishing the building after the revolution, but many others viewed it as a monumental achievement. Designed and built entirely by Romanian architects and engineers, it was hailed as one of the greatest architectural feats of the 20th century, a testament to Romanian craftsmanship, labor, and ingenuity. As a result, the building was preserved.
Today, the Palace of Parliament houses Romania’s Senate and Chamber of Deputies, the Constitutional Court, and various other government institutions. Part of the building is also used as a conference center, and it serves as one of the country’s top tourist attractions. Guided tours offer visitors the opportunity to explore its grand halls, but these tours often highlight the opulent interior as evidence of Ceaușescu’s exploitation of the people, despite the fact that he never lived to see its completion.
Ultimately, history has shaped the narrative of the People’s Palace in ways Ceaușescu could not control, turning what was intended as a symbol of power into a complex and controversial monument to Romania’s past.
