Every travel enthusiast has a long list of dream destinations, filled with far-off places they’ve always wanted to visit. Some of these places are peaceful and remote, others are vast and desolate, and still, others are bustling, vibrant, and full of life, with colors that practically leap off the map.
I’ve got a list like that, too. Switzerland, often called the “world’s park,” has always been near the top. But somehow, after over a decade of international travel to almost 30 countries, Switzerland remains on that ever-shrinking list of places I still want to visit. When I think about it, I realize I’ve always felt a bit of nervous excitement about Switzerland, almost like that feeling of approaching home after a long time away. I kept telling myself I’d wait for the right season and a long enough vacation to truly savor it. And with that, I waited all the way until the summer of 2023…
For a first-time visit, with just 3 nights and 4 days, it was bound to be a trip of compromises. But honestly, isn’t that the case with every trip? Planning an itinerary is always a balancing act between limited time, a set budget, and endless dreams. This trip to Switzerland had the added challenge of squeezing in time to visit an old friend. In such a short 4-day window, there was a lot to consider: first, flying in and out of Zurich to meet my friend; second, experiencing the Golden Pass train; and third, accommodating my recently treated knee by minimizing hiking and climbing. After a lot of back-and-forth, I settled on this itinerary:
Day 1: Fly from Amsterdam to Zurich. Explore Bern and Zurich. Overnight in Zurich.
Day 2: Take the train to Montreux. Visit Vevey, Château de Chillon, and Rochers-de-Naye. Stay in Montreux.
Day 3: Ride the Golden Pass train, visit Interlaken and Grindelwald. Overnight in Brienz.
Day 4: Continue on the Golden Pass train, passing through Lungern to Lucerne. Visit Mount Rigi, then catch the overnight flight back to Amsterdam.
Though this trip was more of a “taste-and-go” kind of experience, missing iconic spots like Zermatt, Jungfraujoch, and Mount Titlis felt like a compromise. Geneva, Lausanne, and Basel were also reluctantly left off the list. Still, even at a glance, Switzerland offers so much variety. Zurich felt affluent and urban, Bern was orderly and historic, and Montreux had the relaxed, lazy vibe of the South of France. The Golden Pass train was pure eye candy, offering unbeatable views of snow-capped mountains, meadows, lakes, and gorges. As long as you keep an eye on the speed and window reflections, it’s easy to capture those “once-in-a-lifetime” photos.
In comparison, Lucerne, which I had looked forward to the most, was a bit underwhelming. The gloomy weather, noisy markets, and end-of-trip fatigue all played a part in making it feel less special than expected.
The Experience of Train Travel
In Switzerland, trains are what cars are to the U.S. The country may be small, but it has an extensive, well-managed railway network. With stunning scenery and impressive bridges and tunnels, Switzerland has also put extra effort into designing train cars specifically for sightseeing, with oversized windows and panoramic roofs. Some cars even have fully transparent ceilings, making them perfect for tourists. Switzerland offers numerous scenic train routes, such as the famous Glacier Express from Zermatt to St. Moritz, the Bernina Express from Chur/St. Moritz to Tirano, the Gotthard Panorama Express from Lugano/Bellinzona to Lucerne, and the Golden Pass Line from Montreux to Lucerne.
While planning, I was most tempted by the Bernina Express, the only scenic train route listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I couldn’t stop thinking about that curved stone arch bridge cutting through the mountains. But with the constraints of my schedule, I opted for the more popular Golden Pass Line, which runs from Montreux to Lucerne.
Here’s more about the Golden Pass Line: It’s divided into three segments. The first runs from Montreux to Zweisimmen, about 1 hour and 50 minutes, starting at the shores of Lake Geneva and slowly climbing up through vineyards and snowy peaks. The next segment, from Zweisimmen to Interlaken, is a 1 hour and 20-minute ride through idyllic alpine meadows. The final segment, Interlaken to Lucerne, takes 2 hours, showcasing dreamlike mountain lakes and wild countryside. Along the way, places like Spiez and Lungern are breathtaking, making this route ideal for anyone visiting Switzerland for the first time, especially if time is tight.
A shoutout to the Swiss Railway App (SBB): Aside from the high prices, there’s nothing to complain about! The app, available in multiple languages, is a joy to use. It’s perfect for buying passes, checking routes, and getting train schedules. It even shows platform numbers, which is incredibly convenient. It’s a great alternative to Google Maps, which doesn’t always work well when planning train routes in Switzerland.
About Tickets
The Swiss Travel Pass offers different options: day passes, as well as 3-day, 4-day, 6-day, 8-day, and 15-day passes. Except for the day pass, the prices for other passes are fixed, and the earlier you purchase, the better the deal. With the Swiss Travel Pass, you get unlimited rides on trains, buses, and boats. For panoramic trains, a seat reservation fee is required. Some mountain trains, like those to Mount Rigi, are free, while most others offer a 50% or 30% discount. Additionally, the pass grants free entry to nearly 500 museums.
About Riding Trains
Traveling by train is incredibly convenient. You don’t need to scan or show your ticket when entering stations or boarding trains, buses, or boats. Instead, ticket checks are conducted by onboard attendants, although the frequency isn’t too high. During our 4-day trip, we were checked every day except the first. While the train app or mini-program displays a QR code for tickets, I recommend taking a screenshot or printing a paper copy to avoid issues if you experience network delays when trying to show your ticket.
About Accommodations
Since we traveled by train the entire trip, we chose accommodations near the train stations. One standout recommendation is The Freddie Mercury Hotel in Montreux, which is literally located on the platform. You don’t even need to leave the station—just walk along Platform 1 for about 3-5 minutes. The rooms are spacious enough to easily open suitcases, and the breakfast is abundant, even offering Chinese dumplings. The hotel also has a 24-hour front desk and free luggage storage. The only downside is that it’s close to the station, so it can be a bit noisy, though still within an acceptable range.
About Credit Cards
A chip-enabled VISA card works seamlessly throughout Switzerland, and I didn’t need to exchange a single Swiss franc. Many merchants will ask if you’d like to pay in Swiss francs or euros, and from my experience, the euro exchange rate tends to be a bit more favorable.
About Luggage Storage
Train stations offer self-service luggage lockers, most of which are located on the platforms. However, in popular tourist spots like Interlaken, the lockers can be in high demand. In contrast, Lucerne had plenty of available lockers. The smallest lockers fit a carry-on suitcase or two backpacks, costing 6 CHF for 5 hours. If you go over the time limit, you can simply pay extra.
There’s a direct train from Zurich Airport to Bern, which takes about an hour and a half. The weather at the time wasn’t great—alternating between overcast and rainy, which made me pretty anxious. So, when I stepped out of Bern’s train station and saw the clear blue sky behind the buildings across the street, I felt both relieved and worried. Blue skies and white clouds are always welcome, but I was afraid they’d disappear as quickly as they appeared—classic case of fearing the good won’t last.
Bern’s train station is located on the western edge of the old town. We took a bus along Kramgasse, the main street of the old town, with plans to first visit the hill in the eastern part of the city for a panoramic view, then slowly explore our way back. As we neared the Zytglogge (Clock Tower), the bus slowed down, and from that point on, it crawled along slowly. Eventually, it came to a full stop on Nydegg Bridge, near the popular Bear Park. Crowded tourist spots are always prone to traffic jams. We took pictures through the bus windows, but the thoughtful driver left the door open for us to get better shots.
Below us was the stunning emerald-green Aare River, lined with red-tiled rooftops of charming houses along the banks. As captivating as the scenery was, we didn’t linger to wander around freely. With the clear weather, we wanted to take advantage of it and head to the hilltop for that panoramic view. So, while admiring the sights from the bridge, we kept a close eye on our bus, which was still parked there. As soon as the light turned green at the roundabout at the end of the bridge and the bus started moving again, we quickly rushed back inside.
Heading downhill, we soon arrived at the Bear Park, a place similar to a zoo’s bear habitat. In the sunken area, two brown bears roamed around, while crowds of tourists gathered along the circular concrete railing at the higher points. After all, when visiting a city named after bears, how could you skip seeing its symbol?
The Bear Park is like a small wildlife reserve. The sloped area along the riverbank is enclosed with iron fencing, providing a spacious environment for the bears to move freely among the trees. Visitors, meanwhile, observe from above, getting a great view of the bears in their natural setting.
It’s also one of the best spots to enjoy a panoramic view of the old town across the river, offering a fantastic vantage point.
The Aare River is a tributary of the Rhine and the longest inland river in Switzerland. It originates from the Oberaar Glacier in the eastern Alps and forms a gentle U-shaped bend around Bern, with the old town nestled within this curve, surrounded by the Aare on three sides.
There’s a paved path right along the riverbank. We eagerly made our way down there, and while the scenery was nice, offering close-up views of the river and its curve, it lacked the layered charm we were hoping for. So, we decided to take the sightseeing elevator back up to the higher vantage point and made our way back to Nydegg Bridge.
The famous Zytglogge (Clock Tower) is a must-see landmark in Bern.
Beyond the well-known sights, Kramgasse Street itself has its own charm. One standout feature is the continuous arcades built into the ground floor of all the buildings. These connected arcades allow people to stroll freely without worrying about rain, and on sunny days, they provide a cool, shaded path. It’s a practical and enjoyable way to explore, no matter the weather.
Under the clear skies, Zurich’s Grossmünster stands tall with its iconic Romanesque twin towers, serving as one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. The cathedral’s striking architecture makes it an unmissable sight in Zurich.
Felsenegg is a great spot to take in panoramic views of Lake Zurich. The cable car ride up the mountain is free with the Swiss Travel Pass, and since it’s not a crowded attraction, it feels more like a hidden gem. From the top, you can see the dense clusters of houses stretching along the long, narrow lake nestled between the valleys. Zurich, Switzerland’s largest city, seems to extend endlessly from this vantage point.
Zurich’s ETH (Swiss Federal Institute of Technology) is the top-ranked university in Europe and the alma mater of Albert Einstein. To this day, the campus still houses his personal locker. As the sun sets, the main building of ETH Zurich is bathed in a warm glow, giving it a welcoming and majestic appearance against the evening sky.
The journey to Montreux requires a transfer in Lausanne, with the trip from Zurich to Lausanne taking about 2 hours and 30 minutes. As we neared Lausanne, the train made a turn, and suddenly, the stunning scenery appeared out of nowhere. The vast, sea-like expanse of Lake Geneva, the neatly terraced vineyards, and the red-roofed houses along the lakeshore—it was truly a picture-perfect view. I was so excited that I couldn’t help but shout to wake the gentleman across from me, completely forgetting the composed elegance I usually try to maintain.
Though the Golden Pass Line would offer even more breathtaking views of lakes and mountains the following day, this moment caught me by surprise and was the first glimpse of Switzerland’s beauty, making it all the more thrilling.
Stretching for dozens of kilometers from Château de Chillon to Lausanne is the renowned Lavaux Vineyard Terraces, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This area is famous for its many hiking and scenic train routes. We had hoped to catch a glimpse of it along the way, but assumed it would be after our transfer at Lausanne. To our surprise, it appeared much earlier, and from such a perfect vantage point.
The unexpected moments like this are what make traveling so exciting and rewarding.
We didn’t get off the train until we passed Château de Chillon, as we wanted to take a stroll along the shores of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman). The ferries cruising on the lake proudly display the French flag at the bow and the Swiss flag at the stern, symbolizing that the lake serves as a natural border between the two countries.
Château de Chillon is one of Europe’s top ten castles and the only one built directly on water. Its unique location adds to its mystique and historical charm, making it a must-see landmark along the lake.
The “Big Fork” is the landmark of Vevey, designed by Jean Pierre Zaugg in 1995 to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Alimentarium (Food Museum). Along the lakeside, there are also a few white chairs to sit and take in the view. Standing at 8 meters tall, the Big Fork isn’t necessarily beautiful or unattractive, but it certainly is distinctive. When people mention Vevey, it might take a moment to recall the town, but bring up the Big Fork, and it immediately evokes the image of this charming lakeside town.
Caux Palace, once the residence of Austria’s most famous Empress, Elisabeth (Sisi), is now home to SHMS (Swiss Hotel Management School). The palace, now repurposed for hospitality education, has lost much of the elegance and luxury one might imagine. The front lobby and hallways no longer reflect the grandeur of its past, with only a few original paintings and chandeliers visible in the otherwise empty main hall.
But none of that really matters. The real luxury is the sweeping, curved panoramic windows that offer an unobstructed view of the stunning lake and mountains—a breathtaking scene that surpasses any opulence the interior might have had.
The cogwheel train from Montreux to Rochers-de-Naye is one of Switzerland’s renowned mountain routes. Along the way, it passes through charming villages, dense forests, and open meadows, offering stunning views of both the mountains and Lake Geneva. The scenery, whether it’s the mountain landscapes or the lakeside vistas, is breathtaking throughout the journey.
The train from Montreux to Zweisimmen runs hourly and forms the first leg of the Golden Pass Line. There are various types of trains on this route, including two daily rides on vintage carriages. While we didn’t go out of our way to board a traditional train, our priority was more about seeing as much as possible and enjoying the views rather than focusing solely on the train experience itself.
The Golden Pass journey begins with the orderly vineyards of the Lavaux Terraces. As Lake Geneva and the terraced vineyards fade into the distance, the train enters the mountainous region. The scenery shifts and alternates between quaint towns, villages, forests, meadows, tunnels, and snow-capped mountains, offering a stunning variety of landscapes that are both delicate and grand.
The train climbs along ridges and crosses through valleys, winding its way through the changing landscapes. At one point, the train reached a relatively open valley, and as I was feeling a bit disappointed with the view, the train suddenly curved dramatically through the wide valley, giving us a perfect, sweeping angle to admire the snow-capped peaks in all their glory. It was an unexpected and perfect moment for taking in the breathtaking scenery.
The direct train from Zweisimmen to Interlaken takes about 1 hour and 10 minutes. However, since we were coming from Montreux, the timing didn’t quite align for the direct route. The next available train to Interlaken was a 1 hour and 26-minute journey, requiring a transfer at Spiez, with a 17-minute stopover. How can I even express my gratitude for this transfer?
Thanks to the Swiss rail system’s punctuality and Spiez station’s convenience, it took us only two or three minutes to make the transfer. Our platform was conveniently located closest to the exit. With time to spare, we ventured outside, crossing a small road in front of the station, and found ourselves at a scenic viewpoint facing the lake. It was the perfect spot to soak in the beauty of the surroundings during our short stopover.
Lake Brienz—known as “God’s Right Eye.”
Interlaken, the town between the lakes.
Lake Thun—”God’s Left Eye.”
Across from us stood the famous peaks, likely the Jungfrau and the Eiger, according to the diagram at the viewpoint.
The observation deck extends out from The Top of Interlaken at 1,323 meters, with a small section of transparent glass flooring. Even though I was a bit scared to walk on it, the breathtaking views and the clear weather made me circle the entire deck, taking it all in. The only regret I had was the strong sunlight—it was a bit too bright.
Leaning over the railing, I took in the vivid greenery of the mountains and the clear, pristine waters below. The view reminded me of Austria’s Schafberg Mountain, though Schafberg felt more untamed and majestic.
The dreamy Swiss hillside is captivating in its unique formation. Rather than being a smooth, continuous slope, it’s shaped by the natural terrain into a series of gentle curves, where the sunlight creates a play of light and shadow in varying depths. Unfortunately, when we arrived, the lighting wasn’t ideal to fully appreciate its beauty.
Having this breathtaking landscape all to ourselves made me marvel at Switzerland’s luxury. In many other countries, a view like this would be a top tourist attraction, yet here in Switzerland, it’s just part of the everyday scenery. What a truly blessed place. The lakeside path stretched from the train station all the way to our hotel, and I’ve heard that this path connects multiple towns around the lake. Switzerland is truly a hiker’s paradise, with routes of varying difficulty, perfect scenery, and favorable weather.
We entered the hotel’s restaurant through a small lakeside door. Most of the lakeside buildings here have two entrances—one facing the main road and the other by the lake. Our double room was on the second-floor corner, with windows on two sides offering a 180-degree view: one side facing the lake and the other overlooking the mountains.
The train from Brienz to Lungern runs once an hour, with a journey time of about an hour. At first, the train travels along the lakeside, and when it reaches Meiringen, it switches direction and begins the ascent into the mountains. As we approached Lungern, the first thing we saw was a small white stone chapel, followed by the town nestled into the hillside. After leaving the station, we walked uphill in the direction of the train to get a panoramic view of the town. The curved railway tracks, like an outstretched arm, gently cradled the quiet village in their embrace. The sunlight was just right, softly illuminating the valley, creating a scene that was both vibrant and peaceful. The clear, turquoise-blue lake was particularly stunning. Since arriving in Switzerland, I had been moved countless times by the beauty of its rivers and lakes, each one more breathtaking than the last.
The scenery along the route from Lungern to Lucerne is quintessentially Swiss. Those dreamy hillsides, reminiscent of Grindelwald, appear frequently, and the picturesque lakes add to the charm. The Swiss countryside is incredibly beautiful, with its landscapes perfectly harmonizing with nature. It’s hard not to be mesmerized by how seamlessly the villages blend into their surroundings, creating a sense of peaceful coexistence with the natural world.
The famous Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke) in Lucerne was just within reach, but I had to set aside my excitement for now, as we were headed to Mount Rigi first. The route was simple: from the pier, take a boat to Vitznau, where we’d switch to the cogwheel train. The entire trip was free with the Swiss Travel Pass.
The pier is located right outside the train station, with many boats of various sizes docked there. The boat to Vitznau departs from Pier 1, right next to Seebrucke Bridge. It’s important to double-check with the boat staff to avoid getting on the wrong boat. The trip takes about an hour, with 2-3 stops along the way. There’s no need to worry about missing your stop, as there are electronic displays in the cabin—just keep an eye on them.
The white boat has two levels, with indoor seating available, though most passengers prefer to sit on the deck to enjoy the views. This hour-long journey is essentially a scenic cruise on Lake Lucerne. There’s a café on board serving ice cream, hot dogs, and other snacks, and it stays quite busy throughout the trip.
The summit of Mount Rigi is not as steep or rugged as Interlaken’s Harder Kulm; instead, it feels more open and expansive. “Rigi” means “Queen of the Mountains” (Regina Montium), and it’s a favorite destination for locals seeking a holiday outing, mountain hikes, or fitness walks. In the summer, the slopes of Mount Rigi are covered in yellow wild daisies, creating a vibrant landscape. On a clear day, sitting on the sunlit hillside, gazing at the layers upon layers of surrounding mountains, must be an absolutely beautiful and peaceful experience.
The Reuss River is the heart and soul of Lucerne, flowing through the city and dividing the charming old town from the picturesque new town. Along the riverbank in the old town, the waterfront is lined with scenic restaurants, all bustling with tourists enjoying the views and the atmosphere.
