Krakow: The Preserved Classical Old Capital
Krakow, the former capital of Poland, remained the heart of the nation until 1596 when the capital was moved to Warsaw. In 2010, it was honored as the European Capital of Culture.
Historically, the earliest records of the name “Krakow” date back to 965, when it was described as a prominent commercial center controlled by Moravia (876–879) and later occupied by Boleslaus I in 955. In 966, when Mieszko I unified Poland, Krakow officially became a city of Poland. By 1038, it had become the capital and a significant trade hub. The city suffered a near-total destruction at the hands of the Mongols in 1241 but was restored to its former glory by Boleslaus V sixteen years later. After experiencing a “Golden Age” in the 15th and 16th centuries, Krakow fell into the turmoil of competing powers by the late 18th century—dominated by Napoleon, the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and Russia—until Poland was reestablished in 1918.
As Poland’s second-largest city, Krakow spans approximately 327 square kilometers and has a population of about 760,000. The city is renowned for its beauty and classical architecture. Unlike the Old Town of Warsaw, which was rebuilt after World War II, Krakow miraculously escaped the ravages of war over the past century and has preserved its urban landscape remarkably well, making it a precious cultural gem.
Although Krakow is elegant and harmonious, the first thing that comes to mind when thinking of this city is surprisingly the nearby Auschwitz concentration camp. I had once considered it a “must-visit” destination, but two days of heavy rain made outdoor exploration less appealing.
Given the weather, experience has taught me that the best place to go is a museum. Additionally, Krakow has a truly worthwhile destination in the Czartoryski Museum (Polish: Muzeum Książąt Czartoryskich), so I opted to visit the museum instead of Auschwitz due to the weather conditions.
Czartoryski Museum
On a rainy Tuesday morning, I ventured into the Czartoryski Museum and was pleasantly surprised to discover that admission was free. However, upon entering, I still politely inquired, “Do I need a ticket?” The ticket seller didn’t immediately inform me of the free admission. As she was about to hand me a ticket, I quickly asked, “Is it free today?” She nodded and promptly shifted the conversation to whether I wanted an audio guide. I was curious about what would have happened if I hadn’t asked, but I still trusted that she would have given me a free ticket.
The Czartoryski Museum is one of the oldest museums in Poland, founded by Izabela Czartoryska. She was a Polish noblewoman, an artist, writer, and collector, and the wife of the Polish noble Adam Kazimierz Czartoryski. She established the museum in 1796 in Puławy, in southern Poland, with the motto “The past to the future,” reflecting her vision. However, due to wars and other circumstances, most of the surviving collections were transferred to Paris, France. In 1870, the Czartoryski family decided to bring these collections back to Krakow, Poland, completing the transport in 1876. The Czartoryski Museum officially opened in Krakow in 1878.
Jagiellonian University
Krakow University, particularly the Jagiellonian University, showcases the parallel development of the old and new capitals in many ways. This has sometimes led to a competitive relationship between the two cities.
Founded on May 12, 1364, Jagiellonian University is the oldest university in Poland. Over its nearly 660-year history, it has produced numerous distinguished alumni, including Copernicus, Nobel Prize-winning author Ivo Andrić, and Pope John Paul II. What left a deep impression on me was the interruption of the university’s educational activities by the German Nazis at the beginning of World War II. They ordered the arrest of university professors and assistants who continued to hold classes under the guise of providing “uniform guidance for education,” subsequently sending them to the Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Many of these highly educated intellectuals died in the camp, with no Jewish professors surviving. Some returned to Krakow, but all carried tragic memories and physical or psychological scars.
During the Nazi occupation, although the university was forced to close, some professors and hundreds of students organized clandestine classes, courageously and dangerously passing on knowledge and science. It is said that the highest educational goal during the Nazi regime was merely to ensure that locals “could write their own names and count to 500,” making it easier to control the population.
St. Mary’s Basilica
When you arrive at the main square in Kraków, the famous St. Mary’s Basilica immediately catches your eye. If you’re there close to the hour, you might notice a group of tourists inexplicably looking up at the sky. That’s because, every hour on the hour, a window at the top of the church’s tower opens up, and a trumpeter pops out to play a specific melody for about 30 seconds. Each of the four windows on the tower opens, and the trumpeter plays from each direction. The tower is quite tall, so you have to look closely to see the small windows and the trumpeter. Some trumpeters even wave to the crowd below, which gets everyone cheering and waving back.
The ritual of the hourly trumpeter dates back to 1392. While the original reason for this tradition is unclear, horns were commonly used in medieval Europe to open and close city gates or to sound alarms for events like fires or enemy attacks. Interestingly, there’s a seemingly “official” and quite touching story about the trumpeter at St. Mary’s Basilica. According to legend, during a Mongol invasion in the 13th century, a trumpeter blew the alarm to warn the city, allowing the gates to close in time. However, he was shot in the throat by an archer while atop the tower. To honor this brave trumpeter, the call is sounded every hour thereafter.
This touching tale has circulated for many years, but it was later discovered that the story originated from an American children’s book. The author of that book was a student at Jagiellonian University in Kraków during an exchange program in 1925-1926. Due to a lack of understanding of Polish, they had their tour guide’s explanations translated by a friend, which led to this version of the story. This “touching mistake” has made the hourly trumpet call seem quite solemn and sacred, drawing many tourists to stop and watch. The noon trumpet call is broadcast on Polish National Television, sharing this unique tradition with the entire country and beyond.
In addition to the eye-catching trumpeter, St. Mary’s Basilica itself is a renowned attraction. Construction of the church began in the 13th century, and it stands at 80 meters tall, making it one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in Poland.
The church is particularly famous for its altar known as the “Sleep of the Virgin Mary,” also referred to as the “Mary Altar” or the “Veit Stoss Altar.” Behind the altar is the largest Gothic altarpiece in Poland, measuring 13 meters high and 11 meters wide. This national treasure was crafted by the German sculptor Veit Stoss over a span of 12 years (1477-1489). The altarpiece is made from three types of wood: oak, larch, and lime, and it showcases 12 scenes related to Jesus and the Virgin Mary.
The church is also adorned with high artistic value decorations, including a starry ceiling, dreamy stained glass windows, and artistic embellishments designed by the Polish historical painter Jan Matejko. Interestingly, St. Mary’s Basilica is the first church I’ve visited that has religious functions but still charges an entry fee. After purchasing a ticket (which was €5 in 2021), visitors are allowed to enter at a designated time, ensuring minimal disruption to the church’s religious activities while also fulfilling the visitors’ desire to appreciate its artistic treasures.
Travel Tips：
In most cultural cities across Europe, there are organizations that offer walking tours. You can choose one or more tours based on your interests and language preferences. Most tours last 2-3 hours and allow you to explore the local history and culture with a guide, making it one of the best ways to get to know a city. A quick online search for “Krakow walking tour” will yield many options, some of which have fixed prices, while others are free (with tips given at the end of the tour).
