From Ushuaia to El Calafate, you can choose between a flight or a bus. A direct flight takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes, while the bus journey takes 20 hours. I opted for the bus to experience the famous Strait of Magellan firsthand—a feature I had often encountered in geography and history lessons.
Bus tickets can be purchased either online or at the ticket office in Ushuaia, with prices around $70. The bus departs at 3 a.m. from the same station where buses to Tierra del Fuego National Park leave. Argentine buses are quite spacious, with seats that recline halfway, allowing for a relatively comfortable overnight ride.
Around 7 a.m., the bus arrives at the ferry terminal for the Strait of Magellan, at its narrowest point, about 5 kilometers wide. The bus drives directly onto the ferry, which has a café and restrooms on the second floor for passengers. Standing on the third-deck open platform, I gazed across the quiet waters, imagining the scene 500 years ago when Magellan and his fleet struggled to navigate the strait. The experience filled me with admiration for the man who proved the Earth is round.
The wind over the strait was strong, but the ferry sailed incredibly smoothly. If you closed your eyes, you could barely feel the movement. In about ten minutes, we reached the other side, and the bus continued toward the Argentine border. After crossing the border and clearing customs, we changed buses at Rio Gallegos and continued our journey to El Calafate, arriving around midnight the following day—an experience totaling over 20 hours.
I came to El Calafate for the Perito Moreno Glacier, and for a day of rest before heading there, I decided to explore Lake Argentino, located to the north of town. The lake is about three kilometers from my hotel. It’s incredibly vast, yet there are hardly any tourists around. The best way to enjoy it is by cycling.
When Lake Argentino appeared before me, I was stunned. The gem-like waters, stirred by the wind, rolled in waves toward the shore. In the distance, layers of majestic snow-capped mountains rose against the backdrop of blue skies and white clouds, resembling a scene straight out of Tibet. However, the elevation here is only a little over 100 meters, so there’s no need to worry about altitude sickness—you can fully enjoy yourself and explore freely.
Cycling west along the lakeshore leads to El Calafate’s town sign. During my trip, I noticed a pattern: in Argentina, town signs are always placed at the western edge, far from the town center. This was the case in Iguazú, Ushuaia, and El Calafate alike.
Just before reaching the town sign, I was thrilled to spot a large group of flamingos resting by the lakeshore. Their soft pink hues added a touch of warmth to the otherwise cool palette of blues, whites, and greens, creating a beautiful contrast in the scenery. I had always thought flamingos were native only to tropical regions of Africa, so seeing them here was an unexpected delight.
If you visit El Calafate, take my advice—be sure to set aside half a day to explore Lake Argentino. It won’t disappoint!
Since the scheduled date for my Perito Moreno Glacier trek was a bit later, I first booked a glacier cruise day tour to enjoy the beauty of the glaciers from the lake. Important to note—this tour is entirely different from the one-hour boat ride to view the Perito Moreno Glacier. The latter only covers one glacier, while El Calafate is home to many other glaciers hidden deep within the mountain valleys surrounding Lake Argentino. These glaciers can only be accessed and appreciated by boat.
In El Calafate, there are specific boat tours designed to explore the other glaciers. Around 7 a.m., a bus picks you up from your hotel, and by 5 p.m., it returns you back after a full day on the water. During the tour, you get to see several glaciers, each with its unique beauty, including the Spegazzini Glacier, the largest one. With a height of 135 meters, it’s nearly twice as tall as Perito Moreno Glacier. When the boat approaches the base of Spegazzini, you are instantly overwhelmed by a powerful sense of awe and grandeur.
During the boat tour, you’ll also encounter numerous floating icebergs and small ice formations drifting across the lake, glowing with a brilliant blue hue. It makes you wonder if this experience might be similar to being in Antarctica. I was also fortunate to witness the dramatic sight of a chunk of glacier breaking off. It started with a thunderous crack, followed by a massive block of ice plunging into the water, sending a spray of water into the air and exciting the entire boat with cheers and applause.
Toward the end of the tour, the boat stops to allow passengers to disembark on the land opposite Spegazzini Glacier for a short rest. From there, you can admire the glacier from a distance, cascading majestically down from the mountains, a breathtaking sight that leaves a lasting impression.
Tour Cost 💰
This type of boat tour is offered by many travel agencies in El Calafate, with prices around $200, excluding the national park entrance fee.
National Park Entrance 🎫
Although the boat tour does not enter Perito Moreno National Park and only sails on Lake Argentino, you still need to purchase a national park ticket, which costs 12,000 pesos. Be sure to keep your ticket, as it allows you to get a half-price discount on entry if you visit the park again the following day.
Complete Guide to Experiencing Perito Moreno Glacier
Perito Moreno Glacier is definitely a must-see in Argentina. The glacier is vast and offers many ways to experience its beauty. You can admire this stunning natural wonder from various viewpoints. Here’s a detailed guide on how to make the most of your visit:
Let’s start with transportation:
Perito Moreno Glacier is about 70 kilometers west of El Calafate, which takes roughly an hour to drive.
1️⃣ You can rent a car in El Calafate and drive there yourself. This option offers flexible timing, and the cost for a standard rental car is around $130 per day.
2️⃣ You can also book various day tours through local travel agencies, which include pick-up and drop-off.
Complete Guide to Exploring
1️⃣ Standard Experience: The glacier park has three walkways: two on the right and one on the left. From the walkways, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the entire glacier, with some sections bringing you as close as just over 100 meters. The walkways are not very long, and the standard tour takes about an hour and a half.
2️⃣ Advanced Experience: Boat Tour and Trekking
Trekking 🚶: This tour can only be booked through the travel agency Hielo & Aventura at a cost of 145,000 pesos per person. The tour starts with pickup from your hotel, followed by a visit to the three walkways. Afterward, a boat crosses the glacial lake to the opposite shore, offering views of the southern ice wall. The trek then continues to the glacier’s base, though participants do not climb onto the glacier itself. Finally, guests are transported back to their hotels.
Boat Tour 🚢: This option adds a boat ride to the standard glacier walkway tour, providing about an hour on the water to admire the northern ice walls of Perito Moreno Glacier.
3️⃣ Advanced Experience: Ice Climbing
Ice climbing can only be booked through Hielo & Aventura, with a price of 250,000 pesos per person. There are two itineraries, each with different age limits: one for participants under 65 years old and the other for those under 55 years old.
The first part of both itineraries follows the same route as the trekking tour. Afterward, participants climb onto the Perito Moreno Glacier for approximately one hour of glacier trekking. The trek for those under 55 goes deeper into the glacier, offering views of the glacial lakes. At the end of both tours, participants can enjoy a glass of whiskey chilled with ancient glacier ice .
4️⃣ Ultimate Experience: Advanced Ice Climbing
This tour, also booked through Hielo & Aventura, costs 440,000 pesos per person. It includes about three hours of glacier trekking, but participants must first hike up the mountain before reaching the ice, making it physically demanding. The age limit for this tour is 50 years. This is the ultimate glacier adventure, taking you deep into the heart of the glacier to explore blue ice caves and cross ice rivers.
5️⃣ Niche Experience: Kayaking 🚣♂️
This option offers a one-hour kayaking tour on the lake in front of the northern ice wall of Perito Moreno Glacier. Participants can paddle as close as 700 meters from the glacier. The cost is approximately 500 $.
Important Tips ⚠️
Booking in advance is essential for ice climbing tours. I tried booking the advanced ice climbing tour two weeks ahead but still couldn’t secure a spot. Weather on the glacier is highly unpredictable, with sudden rain or snow, so wearing a waterproof jacket is a must. The travel agency provides essential gear, including crampons, helmets, and gloves. Be sure to bring your own food and water, as the agency does not supply them. However, there is a small café at the parking area where you can buy simple meals.
El Calafate Food Guide
El Calafate is a small town, and most restaurants are within walking distance. I highly recommend the following four restaurants that I found to be quite good.
First Place: Mi Rancho
This restaurant comes highly recommended by football legend Maradona, and the elegant setting reflects the charm of Patagonia, with red-and-white woven tablecloths and photos of Maradona hanging on the walls. I tried the alpaca meat and beef stew. Alpaca meat is naturally tough, but they managed to cook it to the texture of aged beef, which is quite impressive. If you’re in South America, trying alpaca meat is a must 🦙. The beef stew was tender and delicious, pairing perfectly with local Argentine beer 🍻.
Second Place: La Tablita
This restaurant specializes in a variety of grilled meats 🍖, including steaks 🥩 and lamb chops. I ordered the grilled ribeye and lamb tongue. The ribeye was excellent, with the smoky aroma from the charcoal grill blending perfectly with the juiciness of the beef, creating a flavor explosion. The lamb tongue had a slight tanginess, which worked well to balance the richness of the meal.
Third Place: Isabel Cocina al Disco
This restaurant specializes in disco-style stews. I ordered the traditional lamb stew, and the portion size was shocking—a massive pot arrived at the table, far too much for two people to finish, especially with the impressive loaf of bread 🥖 served on top. The lamb was tender, and the stew was packed with potatoes 🥔, carrots 🥕, and other vegetables. For those with smaller appetites, one pot is more than enough.
Fourth Place: Mi Viejo
This restaurant specializes in grilled lamb chops 🐑. The portions are generous, and the prices are quite affordable—cheaper than the lamb I had in Ushuaia. However, the flavor leans a bit on the salty side, making it a good choice for those who enjoy stronger, more intense flavors.
💡TIPS:
1️⃣ Restaurants in El Calafate are usually empty at lunchtime but packed during dinner, so it’s essential to reserve a table in advance.
2️⃣ Service in Argentine restaurants is quite slow, with dishes typically taking around 40 minutes to arrive after ordering. Don’t wait until you’re starving—be sure to allow enough time for the wait. ⌛️
3️⃣ Argentina offers excellent local wines 🍷 and beers 🍻, so take the opportunity to try a variety of brands during your stay.
