Located in the southeastern corner of France, Nice is the capital of the Alpes-Maritimes department within the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region. Facing the Mediterranean Sea, Nice enjoys the beauty of the renowned French Riviera and lies just 30 kilometers from the French-Italian border, blending the cultures and charms of both countries.
The city covers an area of 72 square kilometers with a population of approximately 340,000. Nice is home to France’s second-largest airport, after Paris, welcoming about 4 million visitors annually. It ranks as France’s second-most popular tourist destination.
With its Mediterranean climate, Nice offers pleasant warmth, fragrant flowers and fruits, and stunning sea views. The city’s seamless blend of scenic beauty and artistic flair makes it one of the most beloved coastal destinations in France and around the world. In recognition of its cultural and historical significance, Nice was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List during the 44th World Heritage Conference in July 2021.
The French Riviera – Côte d’Azur
The famous “Côte d’Azur”, or French Riviera, refers to the Mediterranean coastal region in southeastern France. This area lies entirely within the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region and even includes Monaco. While the Côte d’Azur has no official boundaries, it is generally considered to stretch from Toulon in the Var department to Menton, near the Italian border, in the Alpes-Maritimes department.
Originally called the French Riviera, the term refers to its mild climate, similar to that of the Italian Riviera. In 1887, Stéphen Liégeard published his book La Côte d’Azur, which won the Boudet Prize. Afterward, the term “Côte d’Azur” became widely used as a synonym for the French Riviera, gaining international fame.
The Côte d’Azur is one of the world’s earliest modern holiday resorts. By the late 18th century, it had become a winter retreat for Britain’s upper class. In the mid-19th century, the expansion of the railway network transformed it into a popular vacation destination for British aristocrats, Russian nobility, and elites from other countries.
During the first half of the 20th century, the Côte d’Azur attracted many artists and writers, including Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse, adding a rich cultural and artistic legacy to the area. Since the end of World War II, the region has continued to thrive, drawing tourists from around the world. Many celebrities and wealthy individuals have purchased properties here, turning them into holiday villas and making the French Riviera synonymous with luxury and leisure.
As the largest city on the Côte d’Azur, Nice shines like a pearl on this blue ribbon of coastline. The city’s streets are lined with elegant architecture—rich with history yet beautifully restored. Along the coast runs the Promenade des Anglais, or “The English Promenade,” one of Nice’s most iconic landmarks. Stretching for seven kilometers, this promenade is ideal for walking or cycling, offering a view of palm trees and lively street scenes on one side, and endless blue sea and sky on the other.
Every day, people stroll along the promenade, enjoying the radiant sunshine, pleasant climate, and the sound of waves crashing on the shore. Scattered along the promenade are rows of blue chairs, inviting visitors to sit and relax, facing the sea. These iconic blue chairs have become one of Nice’s most recognizable symbols, embodying the essence of leisure and beauty.
The bay along Nice’s coast is known as the Bay of Angels. Under the bright sun, the water shimmers in vibrant shades of blue, with a smooth, jelly-like clarity. The colors shift through layers of deep and light blues, seamlessly blending like delicate silk fabric under the sun’s glow, creating a mesmerizing, iridescent effect.
A Painter’s Dream
The artistic atmosphere in Nice is palpable, not only in the number of renowned artists it has drawn over the years but also in the design and style of its buildings, the decor of small shops lining the streets, and the curated aesthetics found throughout the city. Every detail in Nice reflects the city’s refined artistic sensibility, a product of years of cultural and creative development.
Nice is home to many museums worth visiting, and among them is the Marc Chagall National Museum, the largest collection of works by the celebrated painter Marc Chagall. Born Moïshe Chagall (1887–1985), Chagall was a Russian-French painter of Jewish descent from present-day Belarus. Eventually settling in France, Chagall’s work spanned various artistic movements, including Impressionism, Cubism, and Abstract Expressionism, without ever fully committing to any single one.
Chagall grew up in a poor family with ten siblings, relying on his parents’ modest income. However, the cultural influences and vivid scenes of his youth left a lasting impact, becoming a rich source of inspiration throughout his artistic career.
Marc Chagall and His Legacy in Nice
Marc Chagall settled in Vence, a satellite town on the outskirts of Nice, in 1948, and remained there until his death in 1985. Given Vence’s close connection to Nice, it made sense for the Marc Chagall National Museum to be established in Nice. In 1969, André Malraux, then Minister of Culture, initiated the construction of the museum, which began in 1970.
The museum houses nearly 400 of Chagall’s works, most of which focus on interpretations of the Old Testament. There are also several other pieces with religious or secular themes. Chagall was actively involved in enriching the museum’s collection throughout his life, right up until his passing.
One of Chagall’s key contributions to the museum’s design was his insistence on the inclusion of an auditorium. He envisioned the space adorned with stained glass windows and mosaics to enhance the building’s artistic significance. Today, one of the most striking features of the museum is the stained glass windows designed by Chagall, whose layered hues of deep and light blue evoke the dreamy serenity of Nice’s Bay of Angels. These colors, intertwined with religious motifs, create an atmosphere that feels both mystical and soothing.
Nearby, a grand piano decorated with Chagall’s artwork adds another touch of charm. Even from a distance, the vibrant and lively colors seem to leap off the surface, a testament to Chagall’s playful spirit and creative genius.
Although Marc Chagall’s art is often viewed as dreamy and filled with symbolic elements, the artist himself rejected such interpretations, insisting that his paintings were, in fact, realistic. Pablo Picasso once remarked that Chagall was “the only painter who truly understood color after Matisse.”
It’s worth noting that the Matisse Museum is also located in Nice. With these two masters of color—Chagall and Matisse—both having museums in the city, their presence has undeniably added a sophisticated layer to the vibrant palette of modern-day Nice.
Masséna Museum
The Masséna Museum is located in the heart of Nice, housed in the Villa Masséna, which is itself a work of art. This 19th-century neoclassical villa, designed by renowned Danish architect Hans-Georg Tersling, is one of the most distinctive landmarks on the Promenade des Anglais. The villa once served as the winter residence of Duke Victor Masséna, grandson of Marshal Masséna, who was born in Nice.
In 1919, Victor Masséna’s son donated the villa to the city of Nice, under the condition that it be converted into a museum. The Masséna Museum opened to the public in 1921, with most of the exhibits coming from the Masséna family’s private collection. The museum showcases over a century of Nice’s history, offering visitors a glimpse into the city’s evolution.
The exhibition halls exude classical charm, with interiors, furniture, and sculptures reflecting the aesthetic sensibilities and lifestyle of 19th-century French nobility. The museum also features artworks and photographs documenting life in Nice from the 19th to 20th centuries. Among the collection are fascinating personal artifacts, such as Napoleon’s death mask crafted by Dr. Arnott, Josephine’s mother-of-pearl headpiece, and various pieces of jewelry.
However, what left the deepest impression on me in the museum wasn’t the lavish aristocratic lifestyle, but the exhibition related to the Nice Carnival and its floral traditions.
Nice celebrates many festivals throughout the year, but the Nice Carnival is the largest and most famous, held annually in February. One of its highlights, the Battle of Flowers, dates back to 1876. Originally organized for tourists vacationing in the South of France, it has evolved into a grand celebration filled with colorful floral parades.
The floats are lavishly decorated with a vibrant array of flowers, and young women, dressed as beautifully as the blooms, ride on the floats, tossing flowers into the crowds. It’s a spectacular sight—a sea of colors, bustling with energy and joy. Many artists have captured the vibrant scenes with their brushes, some creating official posters to promote the event and attract more visitors. Among these works is a poster designed by Marc Chagall in the 1950s, adding his artistic touch to this lively celebration.
Beyond being a vibrant highlight of the Nice Carnival, flowers also serve as elegant adornments in daily life. Floral-themed tiles are a common decorative element in Nice, and the city is known for its exquisitely crafted ceramic pieces featuring intricate floral motifs. These ceramics, with their delicate craftsmanship and captivating colors, add beauty to everyday life. It’s hard not to linger by the glass displays, drawn in by their charm, making it almost impossible to tear yourself away.
The Cuisine of Nice
Due to historical ties between Vietnam and France, Vietnamese cuisine has a strong presence in the streets of Nice. Vietnamese restaurants, with their unique cooking styles and affordable prices, are beloved by locals and visitors alike.
Before visiting Nice, I was eager to try the renowned French cuisine. However, the most memorable dining experience turned out to be at a small Vietnamese eatery. The restaurant, located in the bustling city center, had a cozy interior with additional seating along the sidewalk. It was very popular—within minutes of opening, it filled up quickly. Without a reservation, you could easily find yourself waiting for a table.
On my first visit, I ended up sharing a table with a Vietnamese couple living in Europe. They kindly introduced me to the traditional ways of enjoying each dish they had ordered. Before long, my seafood rice arrived. From the moment I took my first bite, I was hooked and had no energy left for small talk.
The dish arrived in an unassuming black clay pot. Beneath the top layer of fresh prawns, mussels, and squid lay a bed of rice, sprinkled with chopped scallions. Before even tasting it, I was greeted by an irresistible aroma. The seafood was incredibly fresh, with a firm and bouncy texture, and the slight char added a perfect touch of smokiness. The sautéed onions, scallions, and ginger not only removed any hint of fishiness but also enhanced the flavors beautifully. Stirring the rice with a spoon and chopsticks released waves of savory scents, with the rice soaking up the smoky essence from the pot—utterly addictive.
One more surprise awaited me: iced jasmine tea. I had low expectations, assuming it would be nothing more than a tea bag chilled in the fridge. But when the server brought out a large glass bottle of shimmering lemon-yellow liquid, I was pleasantly surprised. I couldn’t resist pouring myself a glass right away. The tea had a delicate fragrance without any bitterness, and the floral notes came through without the need for added sugar. Paired with the rich, flavorful seafood rice, the cool, refreshing tea was the perfect finishing touch.
In Nice, I tasted a variety of dishes at both French and Vietnamese restaurants. Yet, it was the seemingly simple seafood rice and iced jasmine tea that took me by surprise, filled with warmth and joy. Like a hidden gem, these dishes became the brightest stars in the night sky, leaving a lasting impression.
The memories of Nice are much like the small shops along its streets—beautiful without being gaudy, vibrant without being tacky, elegant without pretense. Every detail, every gesture feels thoughtfully crafted, yet effortlessly graceful. Opening the door to one of these shops, a light and pleasant fragrance greets you, leaving an impression that lingers long after, forever woven into the tapestry of your memories.
Travel Tips (Non-Commercial Recommendations)
- Transportation: Nice has an airport, and buses run directly from the airport to the city center.
- Peak Season: Summer is the peak tourist season, so it’s best to book accommodation and other services in advance.
- Photography Tip: For the best shots of the Bay of Angels, visit the “I Love Nice” sign in the morning, as the afternoon light creates backlighting.
- Vietnamese Restaurant Recommendation: Try Nha Que, located in the city center. Note that there’s another Vietnamese restaurant nearby. It’s recommended to book in advance by phone, and the restaurant only accepts cash.
- Museum Tickets: Many museums offer student tickets and special discounts, so be sure to check when purchasing.
