In the past, diving underwater helped me escape from the world.
Now, when I return to the surface, I will emerge with greater strength.
As time speeds by, the memories feel like a lifetime ago.
The fortunate thing is, the world beneath the sea remains beautiful.
With each dive, I can instantly reconnect with the memories, the emotions that have been etched into my very soul.
Because of diving, we’ve gained so many beautiful memories.
Those days drifting to the far corners of the world, those countless underwater photos we captured,
have enriched our lives and touched our hearts, becoming the highlights of our journey.
Travel journals are written for one’s own emotions and memories, but a diving journal carries another mission: to share the beauty of the ocean.
If you’ve ever seen the ocean’s most beautiful moments in a BBC documentary, you would, like me, be willing to devote your life to protecting our seas. The beauty of the ocean surpasses imagination. I hope that with every new diver, there will be another guardian of the ocean.
I never imagined that it has already been ten years since we last parted ways with Bohol.
After four years without travel, we chose to revisit the Philippines’ Bohol Island.
This is our second time on Bohol, and it’s been ten years since we were last here.
Time is like the fleeting years that no one can hold onto, while distant journeys remain the ever-shining pearls in our memories.
Staying true to our original passion, even after ten years, we are still the same—full of love and reverence for the sea.
Ten years later, we chose to revisit Bohol.
It has been a long time since we took underwater photos, but this trip was more about rediscovering our muscle memory for diving and regaining the feel of underwater photography.
The trip wasn’t long, so we focused on Southeast Asia, looking for a place that was relatively easy to reach.
In my opinion, the Philippines is the best country in Southeast Asia for diving. There are countless dive sites where you can encounter a wide variety of marine life.
We’ve been to the Philippines many times before, and we chose Bohol again mainly because it’s relatively convenient to reach—just one flight transfer and you’re there. In contrast, many diving spots in the Philippines are much harder to get to. Usually, you need to take a connecting flight, then drive for hours, and if it’s an isolated island, you’ll also need to take a boat after the drive. As the “country of a thousand islands,” the farther you go, the more remote and beautiful the scenery often becomes.
Bohol not only offers convenient transportation but is also ideal for both beginner and intermediate divers.
For those wanting to learn to dive or newly certified divers looking to practice, Bohol is a great choice.
Take a deep breath, exhale slowly, and join me as we dive into the depths, sharing the highlights of my underwater journey this time.
Diving Precautions and Travel Preparations
When I talk about diving, I’m referring to recreational scuba diving. In English, it’s called SCUBA, which stands for “Self-Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus.” Divers wear diving gear and use this self-contained breathing equipment (air tanks) to go underwater.
Recreational scuba diving requires you to take courses and get certified. If you don’t have a diving certification, you can only participate in introductory or “discovery” dives. For these, you’ll need to be accompanied by a certified instructor or divemaster. Unlike us, you won’t be able to dive independently with a guide.
Simply put, if you want to dive beyond just a one-time experience, you need to take diving courses, learn the skills, and get certified.
There are various diving organizations around the world, and their affiliated dive centers offer training courses and certifications. Once you get your certification, it’s recognized globally. Before any dive center takes you out to the ocean, they’ll first check your certification level, ask how many dives you’ve done, and when your last dive was.
PADI is one of the largest diving training organizations in the world. Its course system follows the standards of the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and is recognized by many countries globally. Besides PADI, there are other training organizations like SSI and TDI, each with their own comprehensive course systems.
The first course for learning to dive is called Open Water Diver (OW or OWD for short), which is the foundational course for divers. Typically, it takes about 3-4 days to complete and includes theory lessons, confined water practice, and open water dives.
If you’re planning to learn diving while traveling to a seaside destination, make sure to leave enough time to complete the course!
Recreational diving is a relatively safe sport, but like any activity, practice makes perfect. Once you’ve mastered the basics, you’ll dive more comfortably and confidently. Bohol Island is a great place to practice underwater, enjoy the fun of diving, and continuously improve your diving skills.
Recreational scuba diving requires a set of specialized equipment, which mainly includes:
- Mask: Allows you to see clearly underwater.
- Fins: Help divers move more efficiently underwater.
- Regulator: Includes the regulator and mouthpiece, allowing you to breathe underwater.
- Air Tank: Stores compressed air, providing the oxygen needed for breathing.
- Buoyancy Control Device (BCD): Used to control buoyancy while diving.
- Wetsuit: Protects you from changes in water temperature and offers some protection.
- Dive Computer: Tracks important information like dive time and depth.
Most dive centers offer rental gear, so beginners or newly certified divers don’t need to buy all the equipment right away. However, it’s a good idea to invest in your own dive computer since it’s a critical safety tool—better safe than sorry, right?
For those of us who have been diving for a while, we tend to bring our own gear, except for the air tank. And that’s not even counting the underwater photography gear I bring along!
So when we travel for diving, there’s just one word to describe our luggage: heavy! And two words: overweight! Dive trips usually push our luggage to the limit when it comes to weight.
The Philippines has countless islands, so let’s clear up a few things about some of them.
Although we commonly refer to Bohol Island, there’s actually another island right next to it called Panglao Island, and the two are connected by a bridge. Popular attractions like the Chocolate Hills are on Bohol Island, but if you’re coming primarily to dive, like we did, the main activity area is on Panglao Island.
For diving in Panglao, most of the accommodation and dive shops are located around Alona Beach. Nowadays, there’s an airport on Panglao Island, which is much more convenient since it’s very close to Alona Beach. I remember ten years ago, we had to fly into Bohol Island itself!
From the map, it’s clear that Bohol Island is much larger than Panglao Island. Alona Beach is located roughly at the southern tip of Panglao, just south of TAG International Airport.
When it comes to dive trips, they can be as complex or as simple as you make them. Sure, there’s the hassle of gear, preparation, and travel logistics. But once you reach your destination, it’s really straightforward: dive, relax, and then dive again!
Choosing a Dive Shop and Dive Sites
When it comes to dive shops in the Philippines, I usually find them online, then reach out via email to confirm the diving schedule, the number of participants, and to get details on dive sites and prices.
For dive centers in unfamiliar locations, one handy tip is to choose a center with a high certification level from a recognized dive organization. For example, PADI has 5-Star Dive Centers and 5-Star Dive Resorts, while SSI offers Diamond Dive Centers. These high-level dive centers are evaluated by the organizations based on specific standards, so it’s like the diving associations do the first round of vetting for us. Of course, the higher the certification level of the dive center, the more they pay in annual fees to the organization, which usually means the diving costs might be a bit higher as well.
For a dive-focused trip, it’s definitely the most convenient if the dive center offers decent accommodation. After diving, you’ll want to take a shower, and some of your gear might need to be rinsed and maintained. However, there aren’t many dive centers with accommodations directly on Alona Beach. Usually, dive centers without lodging will have accommodation recommendations on their website, and these are generally located nearby, so you can choose a place that’s convenient.
In the Philippines, dive centers typically ask for a deposit once you confirm your reservation.
The dive center we chose didn’t have its own lodging, but it did have partnered accommodations, which were listed and recommended on their website. We decided to stay at one of their suggested places for the sake of proximity and convenience. As for the hotel itself, the conditions were just so-so. When it comes to dive trips, the accommodations are often quite basic. The hotel didn’t include breakfast, but if you wanted breakfast, you’d need to order it the day before at the front desk. There wasn’t a formal dining area—just some tables set up on the lawn for meals.
Here’s the pricing of the dive center we chose, for your reference:
Since we bring our own heavy gear, we made arrangements with the dive center in advance. They agreed to drop off baskets at our hotel to help us organize our equipment. On the first day of diving, they even sent someone to help carry the gear, so we could easily follow them to the dive shop. As divers, we always make sure to iron out these details beforehand to avoid any last-minute chaos.
Around Panglao Island, there are several local dive sites, which are great for Open Water Diver (OW) courses or for newly certified divers to practice. The dive center usually arranges fun dives at these nearby spots for such divers.
However, experienced divers visiting Bohol primarily come for the diving around Balicasag Island. From the dive center, you can take a boat directly to Balicasag Island.
I remember diving here ten years ago, and we were super pumped back then. We went to Balicasag every single day, diving non-stop—4 to 5 dives a day, no time for lunch! We just couldn’t get enough of it.
One more important tip: always get dive insurance when going on a dive trip. Even if the dive sites aren’t particularly challenging, it’s crucial to have respect for the ocean, no matter how experienced you are. Safety should always come first!
Before the trip, it’s a good idea to make reservations with the dive center in advance. This gives you better assurance for your dives. Since ocean conditions and weather can change daily, you can only plan the general outline with the dive center ahead of time. Once you arrive at the dive shop, you can discuss and finalize the plan based on the weather, sea conditions, and other guests’ schedules.
For this trip, I planned to dive for three and a half days, but the last half-day was canceled due to rough seas. In the end, we spent two days diving at Balicasag Island and one day at Pamilacan Island.
Looking at the map, the small island at the lower left corner of Panglao Island is Balicasag Island.
Balicasag Island is a marine protected area and home to many endangered and rare species. It’s not only a coral paradise for marine life of all sizes, but it’s also conveniently close to the dive centers on Alona Beach. It takes only about 30 to 40 minutes by boat to reach the island, making it an ideal spot for diving trips from Panglao.
At the various dive sites around Balicasag Island, visitors can marvel at vibrant coral reefs and a diverse array of marine life, including sea turtles, sea snakes, moray eels, frogfish, and more. To preserve the ecological balance of this natural environment, the area is under strict management, allowing only 150 divers per day.
Balicasag Island is famous for its unique marine ecosystem and exceptional diving experiences, making it an ideal destination for diving enthusiasts and nature explorers alike. Here, you have the chance to get up close to the wonders and beauty of the ocean, creating unforgettable memories.
When diving in the Philippines, you’ll undoubtedly find yourself aboard one of their distinctive dive boats—the bangka, also known as the outrigger boat.
These bangkas are a unique form of water transportation in the Philippines, named after the long, crab-like legs (outriggers) extending from both sides of the boat. The design of the bangka provides extra stability when cutting through waves, making it ideal for navigating the sometimes choppy seas.
The stability of the bangka makes it especially suitable for people prone to seasickness and offers a solid platform for diving activities. On nearly any island in the Philippines, if you’re going out for a dive, the bangka will likely be your mode of transport.
Dive trips usually start early in the morning, and trips to Balicasag Island are no exception. Since Balicasag is an island separate from Panglao, it’s technically considered an island day trip dive.
In the early morning, Alona Beach is at low tide, so after gathering at the dive center, everyone first takes a speedboat out to deeper water, where we then transfer to a bangka (outrigger boat).
At the 5-star dive center we chose, there were indeed quite a few guests each day, and the bangka was always fully packed with divers.
The waters around Balicasag Island are stunningly beautiful. Whether you’re deep diving or snorkeling, you’ll see many boats anchored there. In the distance, you can spot the island itself, framed by the bows of the boats.
Upon arriving at Balicasag Island, you’ll notice a variety of boats in the area. The larger bangkas are from the dive shops, bringing divers for their underwater adventures, while the smaller boats are for snorkelers. Under the bright sunlight, the water is crystal clear and beautifully blue, making for a breathtaking view. It’s an incredible sight, with the vibrant colors of the sea shimmering in the sunshine.
On well-developed dive islands like Balicasag, the boat crews are very familiar with the dive sites. Once the bangka reaches the location, the crew will tie the boat to a mooring buoy at the dive site. These mooring lines, which are anchored to the buoy, often serve as reference points for divers as they descend.
The boat ride to Balicasag Island takes around 40 minutes. Typically, a full-day dive trip includes three dives. After two morning dives, lunch is served right on the bangka. Following lunch, divers enjoy a third dive in the afternoon before heading back to the dive center.
The Jackfish Storm, also known as a “Jackstorm,” is an awe-inspiring underwater spectacle where a large school of jackfish gathers, creating a storm-like formation. The term “jack” comes from jackfish, which refers to fish from the Carangidae family. These fish are known for their schooling behavior, which not only helps them find food, such as plankton, but also provides safety when resting, making it easier for them to evade predators.
Reasons for the Formation of a Jackfish Storm:
- Instinctual Behavior:
The jackfish storm is not a random occurrence; it’s a natural instinct. By gathering in large groups, the fish increase their ability to ward off predators, reducing the risk of being caught. This schooling behavior is common among fish, but it’s especially noticeable with jackfish. - Survival Strategy:
When jackfish school together, they create a massive group, making it harder for predators to catch many fish at once. After a predator feeds, it can’t store extra prey, so it leaves the remaining fish alone, giving them a better chance at survival. - Environmental Adaptation:
The formation of a jackfish storm is also influenced by environmental factors. In the marine ecosystem, changes in the food chain and habitats can impact fish behavior. When food is abundant and habitats are ideal, fish are more likely to gather and form such storms.
One of the main reasons I chose to come to Bohol this time was to witness the Jackstorm underwater. In addition to that, Balicasag Island is famous for its sea turtles, and it’s almost guaranteed you’ll get to see and photograph them!
Certified divers who dive with a guide are usually doing what’s called a fun dive. Dive centers typically assign guides based on the number of divers, but from a guest’s perspective, the fewer people in the group, the better—especially if the divers have similar levels of experience.
In diving, a group enters and exits the water together. If one diver in the group uses air faster than others, the dive will end once that diver is running low on air, cutting the dive short for everyone.
At the dive shop we chose, even though there were a lot of guests, they split us into three or four smaller groups, each with its own dive guide. This was great because it kept the group sizes manageable, avoiding the problem of having too many people in one group.
Before each dive, the guide gives a quick introduction to the dive plan and important safety details—this is called a briefing. When diving at an unfamiliar site, paying close attention to the briefing is essential. It’s also a good time to communicate with your dive guide about what you’re hoping to see, whether it’s a particular species or an underwater feature. Dive guides have an incredible eye for spotting things underwater, so it’s always worth mentioning your interests beforehand.
Getting into the water from a bangka is really convenient. You just gear up, walk to the bow of the boat, and jump right in.
As you exhale and slowly descend into the water, that familiar feeling returns. Diving truly is like unlocking the door to a whole new world.
Balicasag Island is surrounded by unique underwater terrain. There’s a shallow section a few meters deep, which quickly drops off into dramatic walls and cliffs. This kind of topography allows you to enjoy the beauty of sunlit corals in the shallow water both at the beginning and end of your dive.
Encountering a Jackfish storm doesn’t happen every dive. In fact, I remember it wasn’t until our third dive that we finally saw them. Underwater, our guide used their pointer stick to tap on the tank, catching our attention, and then gestured away from the wall. The visibility wasn’t great, and at first, I couldn’t see anything in the direction the guide was pointing. But knowing it had to be a large school of fish, I trusted the guide and started kicking my fins hard in that direction.
Sure enough, after several minutes of strong finning, the faint outline of the fish storm gradually appeared in front of me. It was incredible!
Even with a wide-angle lens, it’s tough to capture the entirety of a fish storm, which shows just how vast and dense these schools can be. I’ve seen fish storms while diving in the Philippines, Malaysia, and Mexico, and I absolutely love photographing them. The sheer scale and the dynamic beauty of the ocean during these moments are incredible.
Underwater photography is quite different from shooting on land. With the diverse range of marine life, photography is generally divided into wide-angle and macro photography, depending on the subject. I’m more drawn to wide-angle photography, mainly because my eyesight isn’t the best, so most of my underwater shots are done with a wide-angle lens.
What’s fascinating about fish storms is that, despite their massive numbers, their formation constantly shifts. Even when divers swim through the middle of the school, the fish scatter briefly and then quickly regroup, maintaining that mesmerizing, storm-like formation.
Sea turtles are another big highlight at Balicasag Island. Here, it’s almost guaranteed that you’ll spot them, often seeing more than just one or two during a single dive.
Respecting marine life, especially by avoiding littering, particularly plastic, is crucial for the survival of sea turtles and other marine species. Plastic pollution has become one of the most severe environmental issues in the ocean, posing a huge threat to marine animals.
As long-living creatures, sea turtles are key indicators of the health of marine ecosystems. However, due to increasing human activities, massive amounts of plastic waste are being dumped into the ocean. Sea turtles and other marine animals can easily mistake plastic debris for food during feeding. Once ingested, plastic can’t be digested and accumulates in their stomachs, leading to malnutrition, sluggishness, and eventually death.
Protecting sea turtles and the oceans they call home means taking steps to reduce plastic waste and keep our seas clean.
To get good photos of sea turtles, the first rule is to go slow and keep your movements gentle. The sea turtles at Balicasag Island are usually resting or feeding. I like to get a frontal shot of the turtles, so I approach them slowly and carefully.
For underwater photography, external strobes are essential. I use two strobes, but the light can sometimes bother the turtles, causing them to swim away after just a few shots. It’s not about snapping as many photos as possible underwater—it’s important to find the perfect shot and only press the shutter when you’re ready.
A major highlight of this trip to Balicasag Island was encountering a sardine storm! In the past, I had to go to Moalboal, a place at the southern tip of Cebu Island in the Philippines, to see sardine storms.
Sardines are schooling fish that gather in massive numbers to protect themselves from predators. A single sardine school can consist of tens of millions of fish, and they form these breathtaking sardine storms by changing their collective shape to respond to threats. Compared to jackfish storms, sardine storms are even larger, with far more fish packed together in an incredible display.
Aside from the various fish storms and the turtles you encounter on every dive, Balicasag Island is also home to many other charming marine creatures. The coral reefs here are rich and diverse, providing a habitat for all kinds of fascinating little sea life.
This is what makes the underwater world so incredible—there’s always something new and exciting to discover, from the grand scenes like fish storms to the small, intricate wonders hidden within the reefs.
Pamilacan Island is a small coral island located opposite the southern tip of Bohol Island, near Panglao Island. With its crystal-clear waters and rich marine life, it’s another paradise for diving enthusiasts. Since Pamilacan is farther from Alona Beach than Balicasag Island, it takes over an hour by boat to reach, and dive centers usually require at least four people to make the trip.
Often, I feel that the most beautiful sights during a journey are the unexpected ones you see with your own eyes. Because Pamilacan Island is farther out and fewer boats head that way, our journey across the vast ocean felt almost surreal, with no clear landmarks in sight. It was just us, cutting through the endless expanse of sea and sky. Diving takes you farther into the ocean, and with each dive, I feel a deeper sense of freedom.
Besides soaking in the experience, I also managed to snap a few photos from the bumpy boat ride. Like Balicasag, Pamilacan Island is a coral reef island, and I love how just a bit of sunlight brings out the stunning colors of the reefs. The interplay between the sea and the reef creates a beautiful gradient of blues and blue-greens, especially under the sun. Anyone who loves island life and island-hopping is particularly drawn to these mesmerizing colors.
Coral reefs are one of the most biodiverse ecosystems on Earth, surpassing even tropical rainforests. They provide habitats and breeding grounds for thousands of marine species, including fish, invertebrates, algae, and more. Coral reefs support a wide array of marine life, from stony corals, sponges, and mollusks to turtles, crustaceans, sea urchins, and various fish species. All these organisms form a complex and interdependent ecosystem.
However, the fragile ecosystems of coral reef islands are facing severe threats today. Human activities such as pollution, overfishing, and destructive tourism are causing significant harm to coral reefs, leading to a decline in biodiversity. Additionally, global climate change is raising sea temperatures and acidifying the oceans, posing a huge challenge to coral survival. Corals are highly sensitive to changes in temperature and water quality, and when these conditions exceed their tolerance, it results in coral bleaching and, ultimately, death.
Originally, we had planned for three dives at Pamilacan Island, just like at Balicasag Island, but after the second dive, the captain received a weather warning about a potential storm. Unfortunately, our third dive had to be canceled, and our dive day came to an early end. The half-day dive we had scheduled for the next day was also called off due to the weather.
The weather on islands can change incredibly fast—one minute it’s sunny, the next it’s pouring rain. Before we even made it back to Panglao Island, the heavy rain had already started. The Philippines now has strict management in place, and when bad weather hits, all diving activities are canceled. It’s definitely the right call for safety, but the disappointment will have to be made up during the next dive trip!
