When you first visit an unfamiliar city, it’s always filled with endless imagination and curiosity. Along with that comes a bit of excitement and nervousness. The anticipation of exploring and discovering the unknown truly pumps a lot of adrenaline.
I guess that’s why we love to travel.
Albaicín
Albaicín is located on the hillside opposite the Alhambra and is one of the oldest Muslim communities in Granada. During the Moorish period, it was a vibrant Muslim residential area, holding equal historical significance to the Alhambra. Today, it is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The town has preserved its narrow, winding medieval Moorish streets, creating an authentic medieval atmosphere. Facing the magnificent Alhambra, it has witnessed the passage of a thousand years of history.
Many travelers visit Albaicín to enjoy the stunning view of the Alhambra from the platform at the Church of San Nicolás.
It takes about 30 minutes to walk from the guesthouse to the main entrance of the Alhambra. There is a ticket office near the entrance, where many visitors try to buy tickets. However, due to the daily visitor limit, it is quite possible that same-day tickets may not be available.
Granada, an ancient city, was once the capital of the last Moorish kingdom on the Iberian Peninsula, giving it immense historical significance.
The famous Moorish palace, the Alhambra, is located in Granada and is often referred to as the “Spanish Forbidden City.” This landmark combines Muslim, Jewish, and Christian architectural styles and is a must-visit for anyone coming to Granada. For a first-time trip to Spain, experiencing such iconic and representative sites is essential.
After the Reconquista, Western civilization took over Granada with a fundamentally Catholic approach. Granada became the last bastion of the Islamic world in Western Europe.
Yet, even after this final battle, Granada still stands proudly with its Moorish palace. It’s a poignant reminder of whose Granada it was, this last fortress.
Actually, Granada didn’t leave a deep impression on me. It’s just a peaceful city where the old and modern blend harmoniously, famous worldwide because of the Alhambra.
The old town features many North African-style buildings, and even the Alhambra itself showcases Islamic architecture.
Even the Alhambra didn’t quite live up to my expectations of being mind-blowing, but strolling through the ancient palace, taking a look around, and learning about it was quite relaxing and enjoyable.
The Alhambra has two main entrances. For those with enough time to explore fully, it is recommended to enter through the ticket gate. Upon entering, take the path to the right to reach the Generalife Gardens. This beautiful area, consisting of orchards and gardens, once served as the primary royal estate of the Nasrid dynasty. Located on the eastern hill known as the Hill of the Sun, the gardens receive abundant sunlight.
The Generalife Gardens served as the summer palace of the kings of Granada and represent the pinnacle of Moorish garden art. Built during the reign of Sultan Muhammad III of Granada (1302–1309), the gardens blend Islamic garden traditions with Renaissance elements, earning them the title of “the most beautiful garden in Spain.”
In the interaction and compromise between Moorish Muslim and Western cultures, the gardens within the Alhambra played a significant role and indirectly influenced Western garden design. Originating from Persian and Muslim traditions, these gardens reflect a longing for paradise. Unlike Chinese, English, or Japanese gardens, these spaces are designed to encourage rest, reflection, and contemplation. Every element of the garden is meticulously planned by artisans, complemented by restoration work by Spanish architect Leopoldo Torres Balbás between 1931 and 1932.
The gardens include the Lower Gardens of the Generalife (Jardines Bajos del Generalife), the Summer Palace Garden of Generalife, also known as the “Architect’s Garden,” and the Garden of Daraxa (Jardín de Daraxa), often referred to as the “Garden of Orange Trees.”
The Palace of Charles V was commissioned by the Spanish monarch to commemorate the reconquest of Granada, serving as a testament to the victory over foreign rulers. Additionally, the royal family needed a residence that provided all the comforts they desired, as the existing royal or summer palaces could not meet their needs. Thus, the king ordered the construction of this palace within the Alhambra. Construction began in 1527 and was not fully completed until 1957.
The palace is square in shape, measuring 63 meters wide and 17 meters high. It features a unique circular courtyard at its center. The building’s architect was a student of Michelangelo, and the design follows a square exterior with a circular interior. The spacious circular courtyard is surrounded by a two-story colonnade. Only the southern and western façades are decorated, while the northern and eastern sides remain undecorated due to their connection with the Alhambra.
The Palace of Charles V is a Renaissance-style building, offering a striking contrast to the Moorish architecture of the Alhambra. Since the king was a devout Catholic, the palace was designed in a Western style, unlike the surrounding structures, which reflect Moorish influences.
There is an underground section of the palace that has been converted into an exhibition hall. It displays photographs of the Alhambra’s ancient ruins from various periods, offering a valuable glimpse into its history. Visitors can use these photos as a guide to locate the spots from which the pictures were taken, enriching their exploration and experience of the site.
Tickets for the Alhambra are time-restricted, primarily regulating entry to the Nasrid Palaces. We entered the complex at 10 a.m., and after exploring the Palace of Charles V, it was around 1:30 p.m., leaving us with another hour and a half before our scheduled entry to the Nasrid Palaces.
When we reached the palace entrance, the rainy weather had kept the number of visitors low—there were only about seven or eight people, including the two of us. However, the staff strictly enforced the entry time policy and turned us away, so we had to wait until our designated time to enter.
The Alcazaba Fortress, the oldest part of the Alhambra, includes the remains of towers, ammunition depots, and foundations. During Islamic rule, it was the most important military stronghold. Climbing the fortress provides a panoramic view of the entire city of Granada and the Albaicín district on the opposite hillside.
The underground section of the Alcazaba Fortress served as a dungeon for imprisoning captives. The middle level housed the knights and stables, while the upper level contained the Tower of Homage, the Water Tower, the Weapons Tower, and the Candle Tower, which is steeped in Moorish legends. Archaeologists have uncovered several Arab-style houses in the central square and on parts of the walls. Today, only the foundations remain of the knights’ quarters and the stables.
The Candle Tower is located at the western end of the Alcazaba Fortress. At the top of the tower is a bronze bell, which, according to legend, was used to signal local farmers when to irrigate their fields. In emergencies, the bell also served to alert the residents of Granada.
Climbing to the top of the Candle Tower offers a panoramic view of the entire ancient city of Granada.
Climbing the spiral staircase leads to the Watchtower, the highest point of the Alhambra. From here, you can enjoy a sweeping view of Granada. A scene from the 2010 blockbuster Knight and Day was filmed at the Alhambra, featuring a thrilling gunfight in which Tom Cruise displayed his trademark fearless heroism.
The Nasrid Palaces cover a large area with a complex layout. There are four main courtyards (or inner patios): the Courtyard of the Myrtles, the Courtyard of the Lions, the Daraxa Courtyard, and the Reja Courtyard. While the buildings surrounding these courtyards are laid out with precise symmetry, the spatial organization within each courtyard complex is more freeform.
Among these, the most renowned are the Courtyard of the Myrtles and the Courtyard of the Lions. The Hall of the Mexuar is the oldest part of the palace, serving as the chamber where the Sultan conducted official affairs, including governance and judgment. Due to damage and reconstruction over the years, some parts of the hall remain unrestored to this day.
The Court of the Myrtles, also known as the Courtyard of the Myrtles, is one of the most iconic sights of the Alhambra. At its center lies a large marble-lined pool, surrounded by myrtle bushes. On the north and south sides, colonnaded corridors are supported by numerous columns, each adorned with exquisitely detailed patterns.
n the Palace of Muhammad V, four halls surround the famous Courtyard of the Lions (Patio de los Leones). The intricately carved arcaded galleries are supported by columns, and looking through the columns into the courtyard, one can see its centerpiece: a large marble basin (fountain) supported by twelve powerful white marble lions arranged in a circular formation around the central basin.
The Courtyard of the Lions is a quintessential example of an Arab-style courtyard, divided into four sections by two water channels. Water flows from the mouths of the stone lions, running along these channels toward the four porticos enclosing the courtyard. The porticos are supported by 124 palm-like columns.
The arches and ceilings feature intricate, well-proportioned decorative patterns. The arches, carved from stone, are finely detailed and complex, while the ceilings reflect the advanced woodworking craftsmanship of the time. To provide structural support, the slender columns are often grouped in sets of four, enhancing both the strength and the architectural depth of the space, adding richness and subtlety to the design.
This environment encourages relaxation and mental rejuvenation. The arcaded galleries surrounding the courtyard resemble those of medieval cloisters. The space is organized according to the principles of the golden ratio, giving it a sense of classical harmony in its proportions. The water features serve both functional and decorative purposes, helping to cool the space while adding to its aesthetic appeal.
The Granada Cathedral was built on the foundations of a former mosque. Construction began in 1523 and was completed in 1704. Initially intended to be a Gothic cathedral, the design was later changed to Renaissance style, a common occurrence among European cathedrals that took centuries to complete.
The ceiling retains strong Islamic influences, with three massive arches forming the central chapel’s dome, which rises 45 meters high. The dome’s top is adorned with elaborate stained glass, and the center is filled with paintings and sculptures.
Since the cathedral was built over a mosque, discussing basilicas or Latin cross layouts holds little relevance, much like the Cathedral of Seville. However, the conversion was quite successful, with only faint traces of the mosque remaining.
The Granada Cathedral breaks away from the traditional layout of a main nave with side aisles, featuring five interior naves instead. Each chapel within the cathedral exhibits a unique style, combining Renaissance architecture with Baroque decorations. The sculptures are intricately crafted, ornate, and resplendent, while many of the paintings are the work of renowned artists. The stained glass windows, with their varied patterns and vibrant colors, serve both aesthetic and practical purposes, illuminating the space with sacred light.
It is awe-inspiring to reflect on the immense dedication people had for their faith at that time, harnessing extraordinary talents and abilities. When individuals devoted their wealth, time, artistic skills, and even their lives to God, they must have felt a profound sense of fulfillment.
The central altar’s dome is painted in a pale green hue, adorned with golden stars. The upper two levels feature stained glass windows, while the middle levels are decorated with paintings. At the base, arches extend in all directions, each outlined with Baroque-style golden embellishments. The combination of warm lighting and stained glass creates an opulent and luxurious atmosphere. The decorative patterns on the cross-vaulted ceiling add a delicate touch, with soft floral designs enhancing the elegance and grace of the cathedral.
