Today, I finally visited the long-awaited destination—the Galápagos Islands, also known as the Colón Archipelago, meaning “Islands of the Giant Tortoises” in Spanish. Located in the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean, the islands are isolated from the nearest continent by thousands of miles. This isolation has led to the evolution of unique species, with 90% of the reptiles on the islands being endemic. It’s a true paradise, untouched by time.
The distinctive ecosystem of the islands inspired a young Charles Darwin, leading him to formulate the world-renowned theory of evolution. In 1978, the United Nations included the Galápagos among the first World Natural Heritage sites. Its fame has naturally attracted tourists from all over the world. Despite efforts to limit access, annual visitors still number around 300,000.
While planning my South American itinerary, I found a report stating that the Colón Archipelago authorities had passed a new policy to increase entrance fees to better protect and sustainably utilize the islands’ unique natural resources. The fee for foreign tourists increased from $100 to $200, while for locals, it rose from $6 to $30. The new rates will take effect within six months. Since I had long wanted to visit, reading the report prompted me to include the Galápagos Islands in my travel plans without hesitation.
In the early morning, we rushed to the airport. Although traveling to the islands doesn’t require leaving the country, the boarding procedures are more complicated than for international travel. First, we queued at the special island counter to pay the $20 visitor control fee per person, then proceeded to the dedicated luggage inspection area for thorough checks. The inspectors were meticulous—any plants, animals, and especially seeds were strictly prohibited. We even had to fill out a customs declaration form, and those who had recently visited farms or epidemic zones were denied entry to the islands.
Upon arrival at Seymour Airport on Baltra Island, all luggage underwent a second round of screening, with sniffer dogs dutifully inspecting every piece of baggage. Next came the entry fee payment—fortunately, the rates hadn’t increased yet, so it remained $100 per person. After leaving the airport, we had to pay an additional $10 transfer fee and $2 ferry fare. Even though we had pre-arranged a private car, we still had to follow the rules and board the car at the designated dock on Santa Cruz Island.
We completely understand the strict measures they’ve implemented to protect the fragile ecosystem. Our planet is already delicate enough. Upon arriving at the islands, we immediately felt a sense of tranquility, as if immersed in nature. Unlike the rainy weather in Quito, here the skies were clear, and the sun shone brightly. The islands experience two seasons annually, and early May marks the transition between the dry and wet seasons, with the weather dry and cool—perfect for travel.
The islands are renowned for their environmental focus, primarily because they haven’t developed an industrial economy, relying instead on tourism and fishing. Since our arrival, the use of foreign sunscreen has been prohibited, as the UV rays here are seven times stronger than in typical areas. When going through customs, inspectors will check each box individually; sunscreen and medications (which must be labeled in English) are scrutinized, and regular medications should be labeled by the traveler.
The island has a small population, and there’s a $100 environmental tax for going out to sea (valid for seven days). There are three classic routes available, and since we’re not interested in one of the deep-sea fishing options, we plan to spend two days at sea and one day circumnavigating the island.
In such heat, walking too much isn’t the smartest choice, so we opted for a few representative spots that are a short distance from the car to explore! The island’s attractions are scattered around the “highway.” When I saw this desolate little wooden house, it reminded me of Dwayne Johnson’s Jumanji. The locals mentioned that many movies have been filmed here, and they said the Tree of Souls from Avatar is also located here. However, I’ve mostly seen it featured in Korean variety shows!
A place without the ocean and fish can’t truly be called “God’s Aquarium.” Any place with that title is bound to be remarkable.
Our first stop today looked unassuming at first, with a bit of color peeking through the gray mist, and the waves were somewhat high. The deep blue coral looked like a drop of paint spilled into the sea.
The tour guide, concerned about the strong UV rays, suggested we start with a spa treatment to take care of our skin and avoid complaining about sunburn later. So, we headed to Milk Lake, a bay formed by volcanic lava deposits, where we encountered a strong sulfur smell from the mud.
They said this is a filming location for The Legend of the Blue Sea, where Jeon Ji-hyun was in the water—what a throwback to her days as the “My Sassy Girl”!
For lunch, we enjoyed a local specialty: hot pot on a deserted island. It was a delicious meal! Picture this: an island with sandy beaches, coconut trees, and little cabins. While waiting for our food, we got to try out some kayaking on the water.
The afternoon spent here is etched deeply in my memory. I remember years ago chasing a shark for two days to get a shot, and I ended up with a few stunning photos. Now, it’s the sharks circling around us for a photo op!
They truly are the most majestic creatures in the ocean!
The fear of the deep sea lingers as the boat takes us to the site of a sunken warship.
The dark, murky portholes tell stories of history long past.
Naturally, our first stop on the island was to visit its most iconic inhabitants. From the Santa Cruz Island dock, we boarded our private car and headed straight to Rancho Primicias Giant Tortoise Reserve, the first destination of our tour. The journey took about an hour from the ferry terminal. Many other travelers from our flight also made their way here.
Located in the southwestern part of Santa Cruz Island, the farm is accessible through the lush landscapes of Galápagos National Park and Los Gemelos. The scenery along the way was breathtaking, with expansive greenery stretching as far as the eye could see. Rancho Primicias is vast, with a dedicated area for the conservation of the world-renowned Galápagos giant tortoises. These creatures are native to the islands and are among the longest-living species on Earth. However, their survival was once severely threatened due to centuries of hunting by sailors and settlers, as well as competition from invasive species for food.
Thanks to heightened global awareness, along with efforts from both the government and private conservation groups, the situation has significantly improved. The farm alone now hosts over 200 tortoises of various sizes, while the total population on Santa Cruz Island exceeds 8,000.
Strolling through the farm and observing these gentle giants in their peaceful environment evokes a sense of tranquility. Watching them move slowly, seemingly counting their quiet years, feels like a reminder that simplicity is the essence of life. It’s impossible not to reflect on this as you admire them in their natural habitat.
After visiting the giant tortoises, we headed to an underground lava tunnel, located just a few kilometers from the farm. Such tunnels are not uncommon across the Galápagos Islands. In fact, nearly all of the islands in the archipelago were formed by volcanic eruptions and tectonic movements. When a volcano erupts, massive amounts of lava are propelled in all directions. As the molten lava flows toward the ocean, its intense heat and force carve pathways through the ground, creating the lava tunnels we see today.
These tunnels, unlike the colorful and picturesque caves found elsewhere, appear stark and bare, stripped of vibrant formations. While they might lack aesthetic charm, they provide an intriguing glimpse into the geological history of the islands. The tunnel we explored was not particularly long—about 500 meters from the entrance to the exit. The ground was covered with volcanic debris, and although dim lighting was installed inside, it still felt eerie.
At certain points, the tunnel’s narrow and low ceilings forced us to crouch and crawl, making for a challenging yet entertaining experience. Despite the awkward moments, the adventure added a bit of humor and excitement to our exploration.
The final stop today was the Darwin Research Station near Puerto Ayora. This was the highlight of the day. Although it is called a research station, it serves more as a conservation and exhibition center for endangered species, and it’s one of the island’s most renowned tourist attractions. Upon entering the site, we were struck by the variety of plants, many of which were unfamiliar and not seen elsewhere.
The primary focus of conservation here is on giant tortoises. The station houses more than 300 tortoises of different species and characteristics, with a significant number of young ones. We learned that these young tortoises are generally kept in the station until they are about five years old before being released back into the wild.
Why the emphasis on tortoises? The answer became clear when we encountered Lonesome George. George was the last known Pinta Island tortoise. After he was discovered, he was brought here for protection, but sadly, he passed away in 2012, marking the extinction of his species. What we saw today was merely his preserved specimen.
Fortunately, other species of tortoises are now under protection at the research station. We can only hope that George’s tragic story will not be repeated.
