Girona – The Colorful City of Catalonia

Girona – The Colorful City of Catalonia

Located in the northeastern corner of Spain, Girona is the capital of Girona Province in the autonomous community of Catalonia. With an area of about 39 square kilometers and a population of around 100,000, Girona is known for its rich cultural heritage and vibrant character. In Spanish, the city is called Gerona, while in Catalan, it is known as Girona—a name closer in pronunciation to “Ji-ro-na.” Both Catalan and Spanish are official languages here, and most people working in tourism can also communicate in English.

Girona lies about 100 kilometers from Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia, and only 60 kilometers from the French border. It is easily accessible, whether you choose to drive or take a quick and convenient train ride from Barcelona.

Though small in size, Girona is a city of vivid colors and layers of history, earning the European Award in 2016. Its medieval architecture has made it a popular filming location for movies and TV series, including well-known productions such as Game of Thrones and Perfume.

Thanks to its compact size, all major attractions in Girona are within walking distance. Visitors can immerse themselves in the city’s diverse cultural offerings, explore ancient streets, and enjoy the scenic blend of historic charm and modern vibrancy that makes Girona a destination to remember.

Tracing the Footsteps of the Middle Ages

Girona is a city steeped in history, with origins that trace back to pre-Roman times. The Old Town still preserves many ancient cultural relics, giving the city a timeless charm and making it a popular filming location for numerous productions. Wandering through the historic district, visitors will encounter a network of narrow, atmospheric streets that evoke a deep sense of the past.

In the 1st century BC, the Romans established a triangular fortress in Girona, surrounded by protective walls built from large stone blocks. Over the next two millennia, the city experienced waves of history and change, with the walls being repaired and expanded multiple times. Today, archaeologists are able to identify the different periods of construction by analyzing the fossilized remains embedded within the walls, revealing layers of the city’s complex past.

The Basilica of Sant Feliu (la Basílica de Sant Feliu), built in the 7th century, served as Girona’s main cathedral and the seat of the local bishop until the Cathedral of Santa Maria was completed. Although the tower of Sant Feliu was damaged over time, it was never restored to its original form, adding to the building’s historical significance.

The Chapel of Sant Nicolau (la Capella de Sant Nicolau) is another key monument in Girona. The earliest records of the chapel date back to 1134, and today it functions as an exhibition hall. It stands as one of the most representative examples of Romanesque architecture in Catalonia, reflecting the region’s rich cultural and architectural heritage.

During a large-scale reconstruction of Girona’s city walls, the Jewish community is said to have borne much of the financial cost. Jews had a period of prosperity in Girona, arriving around the 9th century and reaching their peak in the 13th century. Many Jews worked in commerce and banking, offering credit services and accumulating significant wealth. Despite enjoying direct protection from the king, they faced heavy taxes and discrimination. An example of this mistreatment was the peculiar law that prohibited people from throwing stones at Jews only during Holy Week (Easter), implying that such actions were tolerated during the rest of the year.

Although the Jewish community in Girona is much smaller today, the city still boasts one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in Europe, known as El Call. Between the late 14th and 15th centuries, Jews, facing threats to their lives, were permitted to leave Girona, but only if they abandoned all personal property. Forced to sell their homes and businesses at low prices or leave them behind, the wealthy locals quickly acquired these properties. Some narrow streets were even sealed off at both ends, remaining hidden for centuries. When the barriers were eventually removed, the ancient streets were revealed, preserved almost exactly as they had been in medieval times.

Today, El Call remains one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval Jewish quarters, with a few Jewish families still residing there. It is said that those with surnames tied to occupations or natural elements may be descendants of Girona’s Jewish community, a reminder of the city’s deep historical connection with its Jewish heritage.

The Iconic Cathedral of Girona

The most renowned landmark in Girona is the Girona Cathedral. Its full name is the Cathedral of Santa María de Gerona (La Catedral de Santa María de Gerona). Construction of the cathedral began in the 11th century and was completed in the 18th century. The seven-hundred-year span of its construction resulted in a blend of various architectural styles, including Romanesque, Baroque, and Gothic. Girona Cathedral is not only the tallest building in the city but also boasts the widest Gothic nave in the world, measuring 22.98 meters. Additionally, it gained international fame as one of the filming locations for the popular series Game of Thrones.

Chasing the Beauty of Girona

As a popular tourist destination in Catalonia, Girona frequently appears on major websites and social media platforms. In addition to the Girona Cathedral, one of the city’s most recognizable images is the row of colorful houses along the Onyar River (el Río Onyar). These vibrant houses have become a symbol of Girona, attracting many visitors who come to photograph them.

Most of the houses were built in the 20th century as homes for workers. In the early 1980s, the local government decided to restore the area, redesigning and repainting the exteriors in a variety of bright colors. These lively hues, reflected in the flowing river and framed by green trees, create a setting that feels like something out of a fairy tale. Among these riverside homes is the former residence of Rafael Masó, a well-known Catalan architect, which has been transformed into a public attraction.

The bridges crossing the Onyar River each have their own distinct character, offering unique views from their centers. From these bridges, visitors can admire not only the colorful houses along the riverbank but also capture both the Basilica of Sant Feliu and the Girona Cathedral within the same view.

The Onyar River divides Girona into two parts, with several bridges connecting both sides. Among them, the most famous is the Red Bridge, originally named the Old Fish Market Bridge (Puente de las Pescaderías Viejas) because, for centuries, many fish vendors sold their goods there. However, this bridge also has an interesting nickname: the Eiffel Bridge. It earned this name because its designer was none other than Gustave Eiffel, the architect of the Eiffel Tower in Paris.

Some visitors jokingly say that Eiffel built the bridge with leftover steel from the construction of the tower. In reality, the bridge was completed in 1827, twelve years before the Eiffel Tower was built, showing that this charming structure actually predates Eiffel’s most famous work.

Independence Square in the Heart of Girona

In the center of Girona’s Old Town lies a large square called Independence Square, commemorating the historical conflict between France and Girona. In 1808-1809, Napoleon’s army captured Girona. The city’s defenders, though numbering less than a third of the French forces, fought fiercely for seven months before finally succumbing to five years of French rule. The square was named Independence Square to honor the Girona soldiers who fought bravely despite the overwhelming odds.

Surrounding the square, under the arcades, are numerous small restaurants and ice cream shops. These establishments are popular among locals and provide a welcoming space for tourists to enjoy food and refreshments, making the square a lively spot for both residents and visitors alike.

Charming Corners of Girona

Girona is filled with charming little corners, each with its own story. One such spot is Plaza de Sant Feliu, where a stone column stands with a small lioness (la Lleona) perched on top, turning her head with a slightly startled expression. This quirky statue has become a popular “must-visit” location for tourists. According to local legend, anyone who kisses the lioness’s backside is guaranteed to return to Girona.

The statue is positioned slightly out of reach, and in the past, a small ladder was placed next to the column to help visitors plant their kiss. However, after an unfortunate accident involving a tourist climbing the ladder, it was removed. Now, people can only tilt their heads and offer a respectful nod to the lioness. A faint lipstick mark left by an admirer still remains, a playful trace of someone who followed the legend’s advice.

The Fly – Girona’s Unlikely Mascot

In the souvenir shops of Girona, alongside items featuring the little lioness, visitors will notice a variety of playful depictions of flies. As it turns out, the fly is considered the mascot of Girona. This tradition dates back to the city’s turbulent history, when Girona endured multiple invasions by French forces.

In 1285, during a siege by the French army, soldiers entered the Basilica of Sant Feliu. According to legend, a swarm of flies suddenly emerged from the tomb of Saint Narcís, the city’s archbishop, and began attacking the French soldiers and their horses. Unable to fend off the relentless insects, the French army was forced to retreat.

In gratitude for this miraculous intervention, the people of Girona embraced the fly as their symbol of protection and good fortune, turning it into the city’s official mascot. Today, this curious piece of folklore lives on through the many fly-themed souvenirs available across the city.

Every year during the second week of May, Girona hosts a week-long Flower Festival. What began as a flower exhibition in 1954 has since evolved into an annual celebration that adorns the city with vibrant floral displays, welcoming the arrival of spring with bursts of color. This festival has become a major event, drawing large crowds of visitors each year who come to admire the creative and artistic ways in which flowers transform Girona into a blooming masterpiece.

A Journey of Flavors in Girona

In addition to its rich history and vibrant scenery, Girona is also renowned for its cuisine. At the heart of the city’s culinary fame is the three-Michelin-star restaurant El Celler de Can Roca, founded by the celebrated Roca brothers. Twice named the best restaurant in the world, it draws food enthusiasts from around the globe, with reservations required far in advance.

For those who miss out on the chance to dine at El Celler de Can Roca or prefer a more relaxed culinary experience, Girona offers other delicious alternatives tied to the Roca legacy. The youngest of the three brothers, Jordi Roca, a renowned pastry chef in Spain, runs an ice cream shop called Rocambolesc with his wife, located in the heart of the city. Next door, the family recently opened a chocolate shop, extending their culinary influence.

Rocambolesc’s reputation, boosted by its Michelin-starred connection, has made it a popular spot, often with long queues at the door—even in winter. The ice cream, known for its variety of toppings, allows visitors to customize their dessert to suit their tastes. Although the prices are slightly higher than those of other ice cream shops, the quality and connection to the Roca name make it a worthwhile indulgence for many travelers.

In addition to the renowned Michelin-starred restaurant, Girona’s more casual dining scene offers a high standard of cuisine. Local specialties, such as steak and seafood, are prepared with distinctive flavors and techniques unique to the region. Around Independence Square, there are several excellent dining options, including Casa Marieta, a restaurant founded in 1892 that has been serving generations of diners with fresh local ingredients and traditional cooking methods.

One of the restaurant’s standout dishes is duck with pear, made with tender local duck and sweet, soft pears. Though the combination might seem unusual, the careful preparation ensures that the flavors and textures complement each other beautifully, creating a unique and memorable dish. Another popular option is the pan-seared monkfish, known for its firm, delicate flavor. Served with a side of vegetables, this dish offers a healthy and well-balanced meal.

Besides the dazzling three-Michelin-star restaurant, Girona’s regular restaurants also boast impressive culinary standards. Local specialties such as steak and seafood are uniquely distinctive. In the dining area around Independence Square, there is a restaurant called Casa Marieta, founded in 1892, which has served generations of customers using fresh local ingredients and traditional cooking methods. One of their signature dishes is duck with pear, made with local duck meat and sweet, soft pears. The tender, flavorful duck combined with the sweet pears—two ingredients that might not seem to match—after careful preparation, create a harmonious and distinctive taste and texture. Pan-seared monkfish, with its firm flesh and mild flavor, paired with vegetables, is both nutritious and healthy.

Additionally, Girona has gathered many outstanding restaurants from various parts of Spain, such as Txalaka from the northern Basque Country, known for its excellent cooking. Unlike the tapas (small dishes) served on plates in other regions of Spain, the Basque region uses wooden skewers to assemble small dishes called pinchos. At this Basque restaurant, pinchos are selected in a buffet-style manner, and the final bill is based on the number of skewers on the plate. Moreover, the culinary standards here are commendable—for example, a San Sebastián-style cod, where the rich garlic aroma and the scent of dried chili peppers blend into thick, delicate cod chunks, offering a rich and unforgettable flavor experience. Steak is a common staple on Girona’s menus, known for its excellent quality—crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, making it a must-try. Additionally, Girona also offers many small dishes typical of other regions in Spain, such as fresh, chewy fried calamari, providing a diverse array of options.

For visitors with ample time and a love for art, the area around Girona offers some excellent choices—about 43 kilometers from Girona lies the small town of Figueres, the hometown of the renowned Spanish artist Salvador Dalí.

In the town, there is the Dalí Theatre-Museum, personally designed by Dalí himself. The architectural style and design concepts distinctly reflect Dalí’s unique style, and the museum houses numerous works by the artist. Among them, the Dalí Jewelry Exhibition Hall features over 30 pieces of jewelry and more than 20 original design sketches created by Dalí between 1941 and 1970. The Dalí Theatre-Museum’s architecture and design also showcase Dalí’s distinct style, where he used his rich imagination to create the fantastical “Dalí space.” In addition to housing many of Dalí’s famous artworks and jewelry sketches, the museum also displays photographs of Dalí’s personal and artistic life, including one of his most famous works, “The Persistence of Memory.”

Since its completion and opening in 1974, the Dalí Theatre-Museum has become one of Spain’s most visited museums and is one of the best places to gain a deep understanding of Dalí and his artistic style.

Travel Tips (Non-Commercial Recommendations)

Travelers coming to Girona from France or Spain have the option to drive or take the train, which is another common method. The train journey from downtown Barcelona to Girona station takes about 40 minutes, and purchasing tickets online is very convenient. Additionally, there is a direct train from Girona to Figueres, with a travel time of approximately half an hour, and tickets can be bought directly from the ticket machines at the local train station.

Restaurants around Independence Square are popular among locals and generally have longer opening hours, especially on public holidays when many restaurants welcome guests. During the Flower Festival, Girona experiences a significant increase in visitors, particularly on weekends when the city becomes extremely crowded. It is recommended to visit during the weekdays for a more comfortable experience.

In the city center, there is a luggage storage facility that offers secure and convenient locker services. Souvenirs can be purchased near the Jewish Quarter (El Call), where there is a wide variety of items at reasonable prices, and some stores are even open on Sundays, which is quite rare.

The three-Michelin-star restaurant mentioned in the article is El Celler de Can Roca. If you wish to dine there, it is necessary to make reservations well in advance. The recommended restaurants mentioned in the article include Casa Marieta Restaurant for duck with pear, Txalaka for Basque cuisine, and Xibarri Restaurant near Independence Square for steak.