Torres del Paine National Park was once named one of the 50 places you must visit in a lifetime by National Geographic. The park features a diverse range of landscapes, including glaciers, snow-capped mountains, lakes, fjords, waterfalls, and grasslands, making it feel like a magical realm. You can also spot wildlife such as pumas, guanacos, and foxes in their natural habitat.
Location and Transportation
Torres del Paine National Park is located in the Patagonia region of southern Chile. To get there, you generally start by traveling to either Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas. From Puerto Natales, it’s about a 2-hour bus ride or drive to the park. From Punta Arenas, it’s around a 5-hour trip by bus or car.
Opening Hours
The park is open 24/7 year-round. Since it’s in the Southern Hemisphere, the warmest time to visit is during the summer months from December to February.
Tickets
The entrance fee is 25,000 Chilean Pesos, and tickets need to be purchased on the official website.
Visitor Guide
Torres del Paine National Park is a hiker’s paradise, with two main trekking routes:
The “O” Circuit, also known as the Great Circuit, is a trek that loops around the core areas of Torres del Paine National Park. It’s about 90 kilometers long and takes around 10 days to complete, making it ideal for advanced hikers.
The “W” Trek is a route that takes you to the heart of Torres del Paine National Park, including the iconic Torres (Three Towers) and the Cuernos (Horns). The trail passes through three famous valleys: Ascencio Valley, Frances Valley, and Grey Glacier Valley. It’s about 70 kilometers long and takes around 6 days to complete. Suitable for intermediate hikers, the “W” Trek is also rated as one of the best hiking routes in the world by Lonely Planet.
In addition to the routes mentioned earlier, there are also short day-trip options available. For example, you can hike to Cerro Paine, which takes around five hours round trip; trek to the Base of the Torres del Paine, covering approximately 20 kilometers over eight hours; or combine hiking and a boat tour to explore the Grey Glacier.
Near the Plaza de Armas in Puerto Natales, many travel agencies offer a variety of one-day tours to choose from. The most popular options include bus tours, the Torres del Paine hike, and boat tours to Grey Glacier. I opted for the bus day tour, which cost 52,000 Chilean pesos, excluding entrance fees. If needed, the travel agency can also arrange to purchase the park tickets for you.
Accommodation
There are 5 main hotels in the park, and they are notoriously hard to book and pretty pricey!
1️⃣ Hosteria Pehoe: Located on a small island, with stunning views.
2️⃣ Explora Hotel: Offers the most beautiful window views, directly facing the Cuernos.
3️⃣ Hotel Lago Grey: Situated on the shores of Lake Grey, with views of the Grey Glacier.
4️⃣ Las Torres: At the trailhead for the Torres del Paine trek, convenient for hiking.
5️⃣ Rio Serrano: A bit farther from the core attractions but offers mountain views and has a spa.
6️⃣ In addition to the hotels, there are also cabins and campgrounds along the trekking routes.
Dining
There aren’t many restaurants inside the park, and supplies are only available at the campsites. Make sure to bring enough snacks for day trips and resupply as needed during multi-day treks.
TIPS:
1️⃣ The wind in the park is super strong, so bring a windbreaker, and if possible, a hat as well.
2️⃣ Weather in the park is very variable—sunny one moment, snowing the next—so pack rain and snow gear.
3️⃣ The park’s roads can be rough, with many dirt paths and steep, winding sections. If you’re driving, be extra cautious and take it slow.
4️⃣ Bus day tours often include an optional visit to the Mylodon Cave. This may be scheduled at the start or end of your visit to Torres del Paine. Skip this extra tour—it’s not very interesting and is quite pricey.
Osorno Volcano Road Trip – The Fuji of Chile
Flying from the snow-capped Natales Airport to Puerto Montt in the Chilean Lake District is limited to just one flight per day.
🧭 Car Rental Guide:
For this leg of the journey, I opted for a self-drive tour. Using a car rental app, I booked an MG in advance. However, upon arrival at the rental agency, I was pleasantly surprised with a free upgrade to a Hyundai Tucson.
📍 Nearly all car rental agencies in Puerto Montt are conveniently located directly across from the airport arrivals exit, making them easy to find. The rental staff will require the original driver’s license, an international certified translation of the license, a VISA credit card, and a passport. Both the rental fee and deposit are processed through a pre-authorization. The rental fee was charged about a week after returning the car, and the deposit was refunded approximately 20 days later.
📍 After paying, you’ll receive a rental contract and proceed to inspect the vehicle. Key areas to check include the exterior for dents and scratches, the condition of the tires, the mileage, and whether the fuel tank is full. Make sure the spare tire and tools like a jack are provided. It’s recommended to take photos of these details as a record.
When renting the car, ask about the required fuel type. You can fill up either in Puerto Montt or at larger towns around the lakes. 95-octane gasoline costs approximately $1.5 per liter, and gas stations have attendants who can assist with refueling. Credit cards are widely accepted. Make sure to return the car with a full tank, and the nearest 24-hour gas station is about 10 kilometers east of the airport.
Local Driving Rules
📍 In Chile, the steering wheel is on the left, and cars drive on the right side of the road.
📍 The odometer displays kilometers, and speed limits are also marked in kilometers.
📍 Always use GPS navigation, especially in small towns with many one-way streets—it’s easy to drive the wrong way without it.
📍 Some GPS systems offer both toll and toll-free routes. Choose the toll-free option since it usually doesn’t add much extra time.
📍 Traffic lights are rare in Puerto Montt; instead, stop signs (PARE in Spanish) are used at intersections on secondary roads. Stop to yield to vehicles on the main road and only proceed when both directions are clear.
📍 Pay close attention to speed limit signs near towns and schools, as large speed bumps are installed. Driving over them too fast can damage the vehicle.
📍 While speed cameras are scarce and police officers are not always visible, they often hide in shaded areas—so avoid speeding.
Parking 🅿️
In Chile, parking zones are marked with a sign showing the letter E. A slashed E indicates no parking. Outside of tourist areas, street parking in towns is usually free. Tourist sites often charge around 3,000 pesos per visit, with cash preferred. On highways, parking is only allowed in designated shoulder areas marked for stopping.
Osorno Volcano
Located on the eastern shore of Lake Llanquihue, north of Puerto Montt, this volcano remains snow-capped throughout the year. Its conical shape resembles Mount Fuji, earning it the nickname “Chile’s Mount Fuji.” Driving up the winding mountain road to the mid-mountain cable car station is a thrilling experience. Along the way, the vegetation shifts from dense broadleaf forests to low shrubs. This change isn’t caused by proximity to the coast but rather by the increasing amount of volcanic ash, which prevents large trees from thriving.
As you ascend, Lake Llanquihue gradually comes into view, spreading out across the horizon. The cable car only operates daily during the high season. When I visited during autumn, it was open only on weekends. Riding the cable car makes it easy to reach the snow line, but I didn’t want to miss out, so I decided to hike to the snow line instead. There is no entrance fee for the park, and climbing the mountain is free of charge.
Next to the cable car station, there is a narrow trail that leads to a volcanic crater halfway up the mountain. Beyond that point, there are no more paths—not even rough trails. From there, it becomes necessary to walk directly on the thick volcanic ash, where every step forward causes you to slide half a step back. The slope is at least 40 degrees, and the entire area was deserted, with no one else in sight. It was exhausting and the sun was relentless, and I found myself wanting to give up several times along the way. But I pushed through and eventually made it to the summit where the cable car station is located. From there, I continued a short distance farther to reach the snow line. Touching the snow filled me with excitement, and I couldn’t help but shout out loud, expressing the overwhelming joy I felt inside.
At the top, not only can you touch the snow line, but you also get a full view of Lake Llanquihue and the surrounding mountain ranges, offering breathtaking scenery. The descent is much easier, taking about two and a half hours in total. However, for those lacking stamina, this climb is not recommended, as it also tests your mental endurance.
Self-Drive Tour Around Lake Llanquihue, Chile
Lake Llanquihue, located 20 kilometers north of Puerto Montt, is an exceptionally beautiful lake. Surrounded by several volcanoes, including Osorno Volcano, the lake offers a variety of picturesque small towns, each with its own unique charm. This area is perfect for a leisurely road trip, as you can stop anytime along the way to take in the scenery.
The recommended route begins at Puerto Varas, situated at the southern end of the lake. From there, drive counterclockwise around the lake, enjoying the changing landscapes and relaxed atmosphere as you explore this scenic region.
Frutillar – The Highlight of the Lake Circuit
Frutillar is the most spectacular stop on the Lake Llanquihue route, offering stunning views directly facing the volcano. The lakeside features a marina with yachts and several artistic installations that make for perfect photo opportunities. The volcanic ash along the shore feels fine and soft, and swimming is an option—even in autumn, the water isn’t too cold under the sun’s warmth.
💡 Tips:
The temperature difference between day and night in the Lake Llanquihue area is significant, with daytime temperatures reaching 26°C and dropping to as low as 6°C at night, so it’s essential to adjust your clothing accordingly. The full circuit around the lake is about 200 kilometers, so there’s no need to worry about refueling during the drive—just fill up at the starting point. Free parking is available along the streets near the town and beaches; just make sure not to leave any valuables in the car. While the towns have restaurants, it’s also a good idea to bring some bread or snacks in case you can’t find a place to eat along the way.
Petrohue River Self-Drive Guide
In addition to Osorno Volcano 🌋 and Lake Llanquihue 💦, there’s a hidden gem in the Puerto Montt region called Petrohue Park. Located along a small road on the southern side of Osorno Volcano, it’s very accessible by car and well worth the visit.
🕰️ Hours:
9:00 AM – 7:00 PM
🎫 Entrance Fee:
7,900 Chilean Pesos
🅿️ Parking:
Available at the park entrance, with a flat fee of 3,000 Chilean Pesos per vehicle.
Touring Routes 🧭
The park offers three scenic trails:
1️⃣ Trail 1:
This route offers the best views of the waterfalls and Osorno Volcano. It’s the most beautiful part of the park, with incredible scenery that will leave you mesmerized.
2️⃣ Trail 2:
Following the Petrohue River downstream, this trail showcases the river’s crystal-clear green water rushing through the valley, crashing against rocks, and creating powerful waves 🌊 and swirling whirlpools 🌀.
3️⃣ Trail 3:
This path takes you through the pristine forest, offering a more natural, wild experience. Surrounded by towering ancient trees and lush vegetation, you may hear birds chirping, and if you’re lucky—like I was—you might spot a small fox 🦊 curiously observing you.
Additional Information
- Duration: All three trails are relatively short, and you can complete them in about 1.5 hours.
- Facilities: Restrooms are available at the entrance.
- Dining: There’s a café near the waterfall, offering light meals and snacks.
💡Tips for Your Visit:
1️⃣ Best Time to Visit: The morning light is perfect for photography, with the sun illuminating the snow-capped volcano and the waterfalls. After noon, the sun’s angle might make it harder to capture these views.
2️⃣ Mosquito Protection: Be sure to use insect repellent when exploring the forest trails to avoid bites.
