Ancient Civilizations and Modern Athens

Ancient Civilizations and Modern Athens

The origin of Athens’ name stems from ancient Greek mythology: the goddess Athena, who bestowed the gift of olives, defeated the sea god Poseidon, and became the guardian of this new city on the shores of the Aegean Sea. Therefore, when discussing Athens, one cannot avoid references to ancient Greek myths and the legendary buildings that have stood on its hills for millennia.

The Acropolis of Athens is the city’s most famous landmark and one of Greece’s most outstanding ancient architectural complexes. In 1987, it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Acropolis is built on a plateau atop a hill approximately 150 meters high, covering an area of about 3 hectares and blending seamlessly with the natural terrain. The earliest constructed temple, the Parthenon, began in 447 BC and has endured the ravages of time, boasting a long and storied history. When walking through the center of Athens, one often looks up to see the ancient structures standing majestically on the hill. Initially, gazing at them evokes a profound sense of awe and respect, but after many visits, the sacred Acropolis has become an integral part of modern life.

The Acropolis of Athens, known in English as “The Acropolis of Athens,” combines the Greek words ἄκρον (akron, meaning “highest point”) and πόλις (polis, meaning “city”), so the name Acropolis essentially means “city on the heights,” perfectly reflecting its current state.

The main surviving buildings of the Acropolis include the Propylaea, the Parthenon, and the Erechtheion, among others, with the Parthenon being the most renowned. It is considered the finest example of existing ancient Greek architecture. Completed in 432 BC after fifteen years of construction, during Athens’ victory in the Peloponnesian War and its golden age of development, the Parthenon was dedicated to the goddess Athena. Inside, there once stood an 11.5-meter-high wooden sculpture of Athena, inlaid with gold and ivory, which unfortunately went missing during the war. The Parthenon is also a quintessential example of the Doric order, supported by 46 massive Doric limestone columns each standing about 10.4 meters tall. The temple measures approximately 70 meters in length and 31 meters in width, closely adhering to the “golden ratio.” Its intricate carvings and precise craftsmanship make the entire structure grand and aesthetically pleasing.

However, such a masterpiece representing the highest level of ancient Greek architecture has endured over two millennia of war destruction, religious changes, natural erosion, and violent plundering. Despite the Greek government’s active restoration of the Parthenon since 1975, it is difficult to restore it to its original appearance. Today, we can only imagine its former splendor from the remaining towering stone columns, catching a glimpse of its magnificent grandeur from over two thousand years ago.

I don’t know if it can be considered a pity, but the Parthenon and other temples have been continuously undergoing restoration, and judging by the local scene, completion seems uncertain. It is said that due to delays and funding shortages, it remains unknown when these ancient monuments will be fully restored. As tourists, what we see is the Acropolis filled with steel reinforcements, scaffolding, and even modern cranes, which feels somewhat out of place. However, upon reflection, maintenance is better than neglect, especially since these ancient buildings have already endured the test of time and the ravages of war.

Additionally, it must be mentioned that the restoration of the Parthenon has some unique features, as the colors of the restored sections differ significantly from the original parts, which greatly surprised us who expected the restoration to maintain the original appearance. It is said that this was done to differentiate between the original and the filled-in parts. I am not an expert in cultural heritage preservation, so I cannot say whether this approach is correct or debatable.

The Parthenon is a quintessential example of Doric order architecture, while not far away, the Erechtheion stands as a paragon of Ionic order design. The Erechtheion’s columns are slender and elegant, adorned with spiral decorations on their capitals, conveying a sense of grace and nobility. One of the most celebrated features of the Erechtheion is its six Caryatids—female statue columns that are intricately designed and finely carved. However, these six Caryatids are actually replicas. One was taken by the British in the early 19th century and is now displayed in the British Museum. Greece has repeatedly engaged in discussions with the United Kingdom to have the Caryatids returned, but so far, there has been no success. The remaining five Caryatids were relocated to the Acropolis Museum at the foot of the Acropolis to ensure their preservation. It is noteworthy that the slender necks of the Caryatids created uneven stress distribution, leading the architect to drape the maidens’ flowing hair down to their necks. This design choice not only maintained their functionality as structural columns but also enhanced their beauty as sculptures, showcasing the ancient Greeks’ aesthetic sensibilities and ingenuity over two millennia.

The Acropolis of Athens, as a treasure of ancient Greece and a value of human cultural heritage, is undeniably invaluable, but after visiting it, I felt a tinge of regret. Firstly, I felt that it indeed feels somewhat disconnected from modern society, from the convoluted process of buying tickets on electronic platforms to the primitive nature of ticket checking, giving one the impression of being in a small town in a developing African country. Additionally, within this approximately 3-hectare ancient architectural complex, the provided information was very limited. We looked around but did not find any guides or explainers at the entrance, so we could only recall information from previously read materials and some details from the Acropolis Museum. Near the Parthenon were groups of tourists taking photos, and the ground was covered with stones. Circling the Acropolis was both exciting and regretful—the excitement came from seeing those once distant and lofty scenes from books presented before my eyes, almost unbelievably like a dream; the regret came from the lack of on-site information, as we could have had a better understanding of these magnificent relics of human civilization with a bit more information and less confusion.

For those with ample time and a love for art, it is recommended to visit the Acropolis Museum before exploring the Acropolis of Athens to gain some background information.

The modern building depicted in the lower right corner of the image is the Acropolis Museum, located at the foot of the Acropolis hill. Officially opened to the public in 2009, the museum’s collections and exhibitions primarily consist of the remaining artifacts from the Parthenon and other temples, including fragments of reliefs, pottery, sculptures, and handcrafted items, all over two thousand years old.

One aspect that left a deep impression on me was a segment of video footage about artifact restoration, documenting how a staff member uses modern technology to “dust” the Caryatids of the Erechtheion. The worker holds a device similar to a spray gun, wearing a professional mask, carefully removing the black substances from the surface of the columns, revealing the original color of the columns where the spray gun touched. However, the area covered by the spray gun each time is very small, much like using the “eraser” tool in photo editing software to remove bits bit by bit. Compared to the large columns, it’s hard to imagine how long it takes to complete such work. From this footage, it is evident that artifact restoration requires immense patience and meticulous attention to detail.

Due to the elevation of the Acropolis of Athens, it is also one of the best places to overlook the city of Athens. Across from it, “Wolf Mountain” stands out prominently, while below lies a row of white houses that have become one of the symbols of modern Athens.

I have had many Greek friends, one of whom lived in Athens for many years. On one occasion, he came on a business trip and showed me a photo album about Athens’ residences in his office, featuring a section of these white buildings. I remember him opening the album and couldn’t help but comment, “Look, isn’t it ugly? This is the center of Athens.” Faced with his self-deprecation, I had no choice but to smile and listen as he vented about his hometown.

Now that I have arrived here, I haven’t finished the photo album he left me about Athens’ architecture, but these various forms of white residences truly lack aesthetic appeal. However, they have become a part of my memory of Athens. Perhaps, this is a part of the modern Athens style.

The Olympic Torch’s Legacy

When mentioning Athens, Greece, the “Olympic Games” will undoubtedly come to mind, perhaps alongside symbols like olive branches, peace doves, and the Olympic flame.

The Panathenaic Stadium (The Panathenaic Stadium) has a somewhat tricky name, which can be stumbled upon when reading it for the first time. Also known as the Panathenaic Gymnasium, it is a shining emblem of both Athens and Greece, and one of the most worthwhile places to visit in the city.

The Panathenaic Stadium has a very long history, with simple tracks used as early as the 6th century BC to host athletic competitions for ancient Greek male athletes. In 330 BC, thanks to the efforts of the renowned ancient Greek debater Lycurgus, a stadium was built here to host the Panathenaic Games, held every four years in ancient Greece.

On one side of the stadium, there is an entrance passage. Following the carefully designed narrow corridor all the way, visitors can reach the exhibition hall, which is also a highly recommended area filled with the footprints of the modern Olympic Games. The exhibition hall is not very large, consisting of two floors, with walls adorned with the emblems and torches of past Summer and Winter Olympic Games.

Inside the stadium, only two seats that were once designated for the king and queen have armrests, while the remaining seats are rows of uninterrupted marble slabs, which do not comply with the requirements of modern sports competitions. Due to its special historical significance, the Panathenaic Stadium now primarily hosts Olympic-related ceremonies and is open to tourists from around the world as a valuable tourist resource.

People carefully climb the narrow and steep marble staircases to reach the highest floor, where the view is exceptionally broad. Below, rows of Greek flags flutter in the wind, allowing visitors not only to take in the entire stadium but also to gaze up at the Acropolis of Athens in the distance.

The marble glimmers with a faint yellow hue under the sunset, also reflecting the passage of history. Visitors from all over the world are scattered throughout the vast Panathenaic Stadium, appearing as sparse as stars at dawn, yet they all inevitably take a few steps along the track, imagining the Olympic athletes and legendary marathon races, envisioning the Olympic spirit that connects all of humanity, shining brightly.

The Evzones’ Unique Guard Change Ceremony

Athens’ Syntagma Square is located in the city center, very close to all major tourist attractions in Athens. It is also a transportation hub of the city, bustling with people and well-connected. Additionally, the Greek Parliament building and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier are both located here.

Syntagma Square was established in the early 19th century when King Otto I of Greece began its construction shortly after moving the capital to Athens. Initially named Palace Square, it was renamed “Syntagma Square” in 1843 when Otto I passed Greece’s first constitution here, a name that has been retained to this day. The original palace became the seat of the Greek Parliament in 1934. The most talked-about attraction for visitors is the hourly Changing of the Guard ceremony held in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

The Evzones, once broadly referring to Greece’s light infantry and mountain troops, are now the presidential guard responsible for protecting the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Presidential Palace. Due to their ceremonial duties, the selection process for each Evzone is extremely rigorous, taking into account factors such as military branch, height, and appearance. After being selected, they must undergo strict training to perform their guarding and performance duties in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Consequently, becoming an Evzone is the highest honor for each soldier.

Every hour, a guard change ceremony takes place in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, with the most grandiose ceremony held every Sunday at 11 a.m. The guards’ uniforms feature the “foustanélla” style, a traditional Balkan attire similar to a pleated skirt for men. It is said that the skirts of the guards’ uniforms have 400 pleats, symbolizing the years of Ottoman rule over Greece. Additionally, the guards wear woolen tight socks and Tsarouchi shoes with fluffy tops, which are rich in national characteristics and very eye-catching. From Monday to Saturday, the guards wear black winter uniforms or khaki summer uniforms, while on Sundays, they don formal white uniforms.

Becoming an Evzone is not only a testament to a soldier’s dedication and discipline but also a reflection of Greece’s rich cultural heritage and the enduring traditions that continue to honor its history.

Modern Athens: The Essence of Everyday Life

In addition to its rich history and glorious civilization, Athens, as the capital of Greece, also has a modern side.

Not far from the Acropolis of Athens, the Plaka district is a place full of everyday life. First, you pass through several quaint and beautiful alleys, serene and picturesque, with trees casting dancing shadows, making time seem to stand still. Exiting the alleys, you arrive at bustling streets filled with various restaurants and cafes, teeming with people and lively sounds. There are also several long streets dedicated to selling local specialty artworks and souvenirs, colorful and dazzling, with transparent and fair prices. What surprised me was that despite the many shops, they are not all the same; certain styles of artworks and small decorations can only be found in one or two shops. So sometimes, after wandering around, I find myself yearning to return to the initial small shop.

One of Greece’s most famous signatures is yogurt, a food that Greeks take great pride in. What makes Greek yogurt special is that it is whey-strained yogurt, created by filtering out the whey from regular yogurt to concentrate it. This process results in a thick and rich texture, low in calories, and high in protein. In the streets of Athens, yogurt shops offer a variety of toppings for natural Greek yogurt, such as honey, nuts, chocolate shavings, and jams, allowing for endless and creative combinations. The creamy texture of Greek yogurt, reminiscent of ice cream, blended with either sweet or crunchy toppings, provides a refreshing and delightful coolness under the bright sunshine.

This is one of Greece’s most famous “fast foods” and also one of the main types of “Greek cuisine” found in many foreign cities. Perfectly grilled meatballs, sprinkled with special spices, served with chewy pitta bread. The sauce is primarily made from Greek yogurt, combined with cucumber and olive oil, making it healthy, fresh, and rich. This unique yogurt-based sauce is called Tzatziki, which is not only very common locally but also very popular in places like Germany.

Additionally, there is a local specialty dessert called loukoumádes (Greek: λουκουμάδες). Loukoumádes are fried dough balls served with various flavored toppings such as cinnamon powder, honey, chocolate sauce, and more. Some people even have them for breakfast. Similar desserts can be found in some of Greece’s neighboring countries and some Arab nations. In Athens, there is a very famous loukoumádes shop that friends must try at least once before leaving Athens. As expected, the shop is popular with many locals both inside and outside the store. For those who enjoy sweets and snacks, loukoumádes are definitely worth trying.

However, the most stunning restaurant I encountered in Athens was a place specializing in fusion cuisine. The restaurant is not located in the bustling downtown area; we happened to live nearby and saw high reviews for this restaurant, so we decided to check it out one evening.

It was a weekday night with some wind and rain outside, and the restaurant still had a few vacant tables. The owner is a food enthusiast who, after studying various countries’ cooking methods and classic cuisines, combined the culinary essences from different nations to create his own unique gastronomic code. His aim was to allow guests from all over the world to experience a fusion of global flavors while also tasting faint hints of their hometowns. Perhaps due to the variety of spices and cooking methods, the dishes achieved a rare richness in Western cuisine, with a balance of sweet, spicy, fragrant, and fresh flavors, creating a lasting and delightful taste that is indeed precious in ordinary European restaurants.

Through conversations, it was evident that the owner has an immense passion for food and a unique perspective. Not only does he accurately grasp the characteristics of various cuisines, but he also introduces each dish with great care and detail, allowing diners to understand the stories behind them. When talking about food, the owner’s eyes light up instantly, and he is very talkative. Despite having been in the restaurant business for so many years, his continued passion is inspiring. My friend and I couldn’t help but marvel at how love can endure through the years.

We ordered hummus as an appetizer, a Middle Eastern-style dip that was not only generously portioned but also smooth and rich in flavor, unlike anything we had tried before. Paired with crispy fried pita slices, it was truly delicious.

Tajine, a North African stew pot, was prepared with lamb cooked slowly over low heat, with options for spiciness and accompanied by dried fruits, nuts, and couscous, achieving a harmonious balance of sweet and spicy flavors. This combination was innovative and delightful, offering a pleasant surprise.

We loved every dish here, but the most favorite and stunning was the chef’s recommended beef ribs. The beef was stewed until tender and flavorful, melting in the mouth, paired with sweet and soft sweet potato puree and a specially crafted sauce with distinct Eastern flavors. The texture was smooth and refined, and the ingenious pairing created a very rich taste that was highly praised by the diners. The owner proudly explained that this dish (beef ribs) requires several hours of slow cooking before it can be served to customers. It must be said that the skill and care evident in this dish amazed the visitors’ taste buds.

In this ancient land, where time flows slowly, even the capital lacks the hurried pace or dazzling neon lights typical of a metropolis. The sense of modernity seems yet to fully arrive here. However, the cheerful and talkative Greeks drive away the city’s oldness and patina through artistic creation and culinary craftsmanship. With their vibrant vitality, they infuse the weight of millennia-old civilization with warmth and liveliness, making it light and dynamic, filled with enticing aromas and lingering flavors.

Travel Tips (Non-commercial recommendations):

Currency and Electrical Outlets

Greece is part of the European Union and uses the euro (€). The electrical outlets follow the German standard (Type F).

Transportation

  • From Athens Airport to the City Center:
    There is a direct metro line from the airport to the city center, with tickets priced at €9.
  • Getting Around in Athens:
    The metro system is very convenient for city travel. Ticket vending machines offer various metro cards for tourists.
  • Traveling to the Greek Islands:
    For islands with airports (such as Santorini, Crete, and Milos), flights are available. For other islands, ferries are the primary mode of transport.

Safety Tips

  • Areas to Avoid:
    Some areas north of central Athens, such as Metaxourgeio and Omonoia, are known for security concerns. Be cautious when choosing accommodation, and it is advisable to avoid these places at night.
  • Pickpockets:
    In popular tourist areas like the Acropolis, be vigilant against pickpockets.

Tickets and Admission

  • Acropolis Museum:
    Students may be eligible for free entry (subject to change; check official announcements).
  • Acropolis Tickets:
    You can buy tickets on-site (queues expected) or purchase online via a QR code available at the ticket office. However, online purchases may have glitches, and entry gates might not scan correctly (guards can assist with manual entry).
  • Combined Tickets:
    Visitors can buy individual tickets for the Acropolis or a combined ticket covering six archaeological sites. However, unless you have a deep interest in these sites, a single ticket for the Acropolis is usually enough. Be aware that the explanatory information at the Acropolis and other sites is minimal, so much of the experience depends on personal interpretation.

Recommended Restaurants

  • Fresko Yogurt Bar:
    A popular yogurt chain offering delicious Greek yogurt.
  • Kostas:
    A small fast-food place recommended by locals. Look carefully, as the storefront is easy to miss.
    • They serve pita wraps with pork or beef – both worth trying.
    • The skewers, known as souvlaki, can be a bit dry.
    • Simple, bilingual menu with limited options.
  • Lukumades:
    This eatery specializes in loukoumádes, a traditional Greek dessert.
  • A Little Taste of Home Restaurant:
    An impressive fusion cuisine restaurant. Reservations are recommended.

Souvenir Shopping

  • Plaka District:
    This area is filled with souvenir shops and is worth exploring. Browse multiple stores before making a decision, as you’ll find a wide variety of items.
  • Street Vendors Near the Acropolis and Plaka:
    Some stalls offer incredibly cheap souvenirs, which may seem suspiciously low-priced, but they are often just genuinely inexpensive.
  • Caution with Jewelry:
    Be cautious when shopping at unbranded jewelry stores in Plaka, especially those offering a 50% discount on gold and silver items. The silver quality can be questionable, so inspect carefully before purchasing.