About Lebanon
Lebanon, a small Western Asian country close to Europe, differs significantly from other West Asian nations known for their arid desert climates. Nestled along the Mediterranean coast, Lebanon enjoys a relatively humid environment. We visited at the end of the year, just as the weather was becoming unpredictable. On the plains, it rained three times a day, while heavy snow fell in the mountains, giving us a glimpse of the region’s volatile climate.
What left the deepest impression, however, was the country’s unrest. Checkpoints were everywhere, with protests and demonstrations taking place across the land. Armed military and police patrolled the streets, yet life for the residents carried on as usual. It felt like two worlds coexisting—one where the skies were ever-changing, and another where ordinary people lived amidst surging undercurrents. This is the Lebanon we encountered.
Lebanon, a small, seemingly peripheral country, often gives the impression of being familiar due to its frequent presence in the news. However, Lebanon remains a place that even its own people find difficult to define. Situated on the corner of Western Asia by the Mediterranean, wedged between two historical foes—Israel and Syria—Lebanon’s strategic position has inevitably placed it at the heart of conflict. Over the years, the country has been synonymous with war and displacement, earning it labels of ceaseless turmoil. Strangely, despite the conflict-ridden environment, Lebanon still draws over 2 million visitors from around the world each year. So, what mystical force compels people to risk traveling here amidst such instability? The answer lies in its history—a history filled with mystery and vibrant, legendary tales.
Lebanon boasts one of the oldest civilizations in the world, intertwined with the origins of human history itself. The land is so ancient that it bears traces of numerous civilizations spanning vast periods. The Phoenicians established their roots here, the Carthaginians set sail from its harbors, Egyptians built palaces on its plains, Babylonians constructed gardens by the sea, Greeks left behind sturdy walls, Romans erected grand arenas, and Persian forces trampled its fields. The Byzantine faith spread across its mountains, and each era left its mark through conquest and dominance. Eventually, Lebanon was absorbed into the powerful Arab Empire, but warfare never truly ceased.
From the 7th to the 16th centuries, the land was repeatedly ravaged by battles involving Crusaders, Ottomans, and Arabs, leaving it in ruin. The Ottomans held Lebanon for nearly 400 years, followed by a brief French mandate after World War I, which profoundly shaped Lebanese society and culture. In 1943, Lebanon declared its independence. The early years of independence saw rapid economic growth, with thriving markets earning Lebanon the nickname “Paris of the Middle East” in the 1960s. It became a top global destination, known for its rich historical sites and breathtaking natural scenery.
Military Control in Lebanon
Upon arriving in Lebanon, one must quickly adapt to the presence of military control. Lebanon remains a country where military conflict occurs intermittently. Although martial law has not been officially declared, various forms of military control are evident throughout the country. From the moment you set foot in Lebanon, you will encounter armed personnel. Whether at the airport, city entrances, major highways, intersections, central squares, remote towns, key locations, or tourist attractions, armed individuals are omnipresent. Guard towers are scattered everywhere, and the armed personnel—whether soldiers, militia members, police, or religious followers—represent different factions and sectarian forces. Clad in various combat uniforms and wielding a wide array of weapons, these individuals hold significant power, including life-and-death authority. Compliance is mandatory when dealing with them.
Here are a few crucial points to keep in mind:
- Respect and compliance: You must respect and cooperate with them during inspections. All urban areas have checkpoints, and random inspections are common. Avoid trying to evade checks and follow instructions carefully.
- No unauthorized photography: It is strictly forbidden to photograph armed personnel, important facilities, women, and children without permission. Seek explicit consent before taking photos to avoid serious consequences. Additionally, refrain from engaging in unnecessary conversations with armed personnel to avoid complications.
- Avoid restricted areas: Many city squares, main roads, and areas around mosques are frequent sites for gatherings and demonstrations. These locations may be cordoned off during events, with vehicular access prohibited. Entering these areas could lead to misunderstandings or expose you to stray bullets, so it’s best to stay away.
- Stay away from conflict zones: Although large-scale military conflicts have subsided, Lebanon has not completely emerged from a state of war. Sporadic fighting continues in certain regions, and some clashes remain intense. These areas are generally blocked off and under military control, making them inaccessible.
Despite the de facto military control, Lebanon is currently experiencing a relatively peaceful period. As long as visitors comply with local regulations and act cautiously, personal safety is generally not a concern.
Transportation and Accommodation Arrangements
For this trip to Lebanon, we opted for a self-driving tour throughout the entire journey.
Given that Lebanon is relatively small, with the capital Beirut conveniently situated in the middle between the northern and southern parts of the country, it served as an ideal base for our travels. From Beirut, reaching other cities and attractions was quite manageable—nearby destinations took less than half an hour, while farther ones required no more than two to three hours. In practice, this arrangement proved to be an optimal solution.
Lebanon’s self-driving experience can be considered among the most challenging worldwide. While the road network is well-developed and covers even mountainous areas, with all attractions accessible, some specific difficulties should be noted. One advantage is that Lebanon’s highways are toll-free. However, secondary roads are often poorly maintained, full of potholes, and narrow, particularly in rural and mountainous areas, where passing other vehicles can be difficult.
There are two key things to keep in mind when driving in Lebanon:
- Avoid aggressive driving: Lebanese driving habits are quite similar to those in many Asian countries—drivers tend to compete for space, whether changing lanes or making turns, resulting in frequent minor collisions. It’s essential to remain highly alert while driving. Prioritize safety over speed—better to be slow and safe.
- Respect military checkpoints: Lebanon remains under wartime traffic control, and traveling from Beirut to any other city or region requires passing through military checkpoints. Sensitive areas have even more checkpoints. Always carry identification and follow procedures when passing through these checkpoints—cutting in line or breaking rules is not advisable. Additionally, road closures are common in some places, so it’s essential to check road conditions in advance.
Beirut
Beirut is the largest city and capital of Lebanon, and one of the most vibrant metropolises in West Asia, exuding a distinctly European flair among Middle Eastern cities. Its golden age was in the 1960s when it stood as a central hub in the Middle East and a Mediterranean resort destination. Unfortunately, the fires of war during the Middle Eastern conflicts ravaged the city. Although large-scale reconstruction efforts have sought to restore it, the city’s former glory remains elusive. Development is still limited by the effects of war and ongoing security concerns. Central areas and religious sites are tightly controlled by military and police forces, with the most famous landmarks subject to the strictest inspections.
Beirut is a sharply divided city. The main division runs along Damascus Street, with the east generally being home to Muslim communities and the west dominated by Christian groups. However, this is more of a political and cultural boundary than a strict geographical one. For example, the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque, also known as the Blue Dome Mosque for its resemblance to Istanbul’s Blue Mosque, stands right next to St. George’s Cathedral. The mosque, though not a historical monument, was built in the 21st century under the initiative of former Prime Minister Rafic Hariri, who was assassinated before its completion. As a result, the mosque also serves as his burial site and memorial.
The city’s historic and cultural landmarks are concentrated in the downtown area along what is known as the Green Line. Notable sites include Martyrs’ Square, the Government Palace, Roman ruins, the Egg (an abandoned dome structure), the Al-Omari Mosque, Star Square, the Robert Mouawad Museum, and the Beirut International Exhibition and Leisure Center (BIEL). This boundary is often referred to as a unique scenic line.
To the east of the Green Line are the historic streets of Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhael, along with the colorful Rainbow Stairs. This area reflects the deep influence of French culture and may be why Beirut earned the nickname “the Paris of the Middle East.” To the south lies the Ashrafieh district, a Christian area that houses the National Museum, the Royal Palace, the Sursock Museum, the Geology Museum, and several government offices.
In the western part of the city, Rue Hamra stands out as the most famous street, packed with restaurants, bars, cafes, and shops, making it the most bustling commercial area in Beirut. Along with the Corniche and the American University of Beirut, it forms the city’s fashionable district. The Corniche also leads to the well-known Pigeon Rocks, a group of rock formations rising from the sea. Though they do not particularly resemble pigeons, they symbolize the people’s desire for peace amidst the region’s turbulent history.
Byblos: The Cradle of Civilization
Byblos (Jbeil), also translated as Jubayl, is a must-visit destination in Lebanon. This ancient city is the birthplace of the Phoenicians, the creators of one of the most significant alphabets in human history. From here, they ventured out to distant lands, establishing trade hubs and exporting cedar wood and other regional specialties. Ships departing from this port reached various towns across the Middle East, North Africa, and ancient Egypt.
Byblos is rich in historical sites, with the Byblos Archaeological Park being the most renowned. The attractions are concentrated and easy to explore on foot, with paths leading visitors around ruins, castles, and ancient relics. The archaeological park contains remnants from various periods, including those left behind by the Greeks, Romans, Crusaders, Persians, and Ottomans. The best-preserved structure is the Crusader Castle, a monumental 12th-century construction built on Roman ruins. Some of the artifacts discovered here are housed in museums, and the castle’s vantage point offers sweeping views of the entire city and the Mediterranean Sea.
Leaving the castle, a stroll along the Roman-style colonnaded walkway brings you to the ancient harbor. Nearby, visitors can explore St. John the Baptist Church and the Fossil Museum. The walk ends at the picturesque Byblos Port, where the azure sea meets ancient ruins. The combination of scenic beauty and historical legacy makes Byblos a unique blend of past and present, evoking a sense of timeless charm.
Tripoli: The Fortress in Battle
Among all cities in Lebanon, Tripoli (Ṭarābulus) might have the highest exposure, even surpassing the Tripoli in Libya. The reason lies in the frequent conflicts, as any outbreak of violence inevitably involves Tripoli. Many advised us against visiting due to the ongoing tensions, with clashes often blocking roads. Fortunately, we encountered no lockdowns—just temporary road closures and inspections. After a bumpy detour along narrow roads, we finally made it into the city.
Inside, the military presence was palpable: soldiers with rifles at the ready, and a tense atmosphere prevailed. High on a hill, the Tripoli Citadel (Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles) was surrounded by soldiers and armored vehicles. Curious, we asked a guard if we could visit the fortress, and to our surprise, the answer was yes. Upon entering, we discovered that the citadel, originally built in the 10th century and restored in the 19th century, was not only open to visitors but also actively serving as a military base, with cannons still lined up, symbolizing its continued defensive role.
In stark contrast, the old city bustled with life, with no sign of conflict. The old town consists of low, aging houses and narrow, winding alleyways. Upon entering, we were met with crowds of people and shops overflowing with goods, creating an atmosphere even livelier than in Beirut. It seemed as though the people, aware of the fragility of life in conflict, embraced it even more fervently.
Just beyond the old city stands the Sultan Abdul Hamid Clocktower, a notable landmark from the Ottoman era. Although the surrounding structures were long destroyed, the slender, tall clocktower still stands, solitary and upright, a silent witness to the city’s storied past.
After leaving Tripoli, we drove into the mountains, heading toward the northern province to visit the holy site of Qozhaiya (Aarbet Qozhaiya). The road was winding and steep, with constant ascents and descents. Along the way, we were surprised by a rare sight in the Middle East: heavy snowfall in the Lebanese mountains. After two hours of driving, we finally reached Qozhaiya, which is essentially a Christian church, revered by locals as a sanctuary in honor of the devout Christian Qozhaiya.
Our Lady of Lebanon in Jounieh
On the route from Beirut to Tripoli, one inevitably passes through Jounieh. This renowned coastal city in Lebanon is known for its rich history, scenic beauty, and proximity to the capital—just 15 kilometers away—making it an ideal weekend getaway for locals. Jounieh boasts a natural harbor with bustling cargo docks alongside picturesque cruise and yacht marinas.
The Jounieh City Hall, an architectural gem from the Ottoman era, adds to the city’s charm. Just outside the city lies the Jeita Grotto, one of the rare natural wonders in the Middle East, drawing numerous visitors. However, Jounieh’s most famous landmark is the towering statue of Our Lady of Lebanon, situated atop Mount Harissa. Built in 1908, the statue has served as a pilgrimage site for Christians near and far, even attracting a papal visit.
A cable car runs from the base of the mountain directly to the statue at the summit, where an observation platform offers breathtaking panoramic views of the entire city of Jounieh.
The Magnificent Temples of Baalbek
Lebanon is home to numerous ancient sites, but none surpass the fame and grandeur of the Baalbek Temples. Located in the northern part of the Beqaa Valley, Baalbek draws countless visitors each year, making it the most popular tourist destination in Lebanon. In Phoenician, Baalbek means “City of the Sun.”
The temple complex was originally established by the Phoenicians and later significantly expanded by the Romans, resulting in a blend of Phoenician and Roman architectural styles. Known for its ancient history, vast area, impressive scale, and well-preserved structures, Baalbek ranks among the finest World Heritage sites.
The most notable parts of the site include the grand ceremonial courtyard, the massive Temple of Jupiter, and the well-preserved Temple of Bacchus. Surrounding the main complex, additional attractions like the Temple of Venus, the Umayyad Mosque, and the famous “Stone of the Pregnant Woman” further enrich the experience.
Aanjar: A World Heritage Site
The archaeological site of Aanjar, also known as the ruins of the Umayyad city, lies in the Beqaa Valley, just like the temples of Baalbek. This ancient palace, established in the 8th century by Caliph Al-Walid I, is one of the most significant historical landmarks in the Middle East. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in the 1980s and has since been carefully preserved and restored.
Aanjar’s strategic location made it a vital passage on the trade route from Damascus to southern regions. Over time, it evolved into a major inland trading hub. The site represents the most significant and expansive Umayyad dynasty ruins in Lebanon, showcasing the historical influence of the Umayyads, who once dominated the Mediterranean. However, their extravagant lifestyle, military aggression, and internal strife led to their downfall just a few decades after the palace’s completion.
The palace complex is square-shaped, with surrounding arcades and a crossroad connecting four gates, reflecting a layout reminiscent of ancient Roman cities. Ongoing archaeological work continues to uncover more of the site’s past splendor, yet much of the structure has already been restored, providing visitors with a vivid glimpse into the bustling commercial center it once was.
Saida: A Seaside City
Saida, also known as Sidon, is a renowned coastal city in Lebanon. Located close to Beirut, it takes just about an hour to reach by heading south along the highway, passing a large enclosed refugee camp. The journey offers scenic views, with several seaside towns along the way, each boasting numerous hotels, villas, and idyllic beaches—a haven for vacation and relaxation. However, upon entering Saida, the atmosphere shifts, with bustling markets and lively crowds giving a sense of descending from paradise to everyday life.
While Saida is a relatively large city, its main attractions are clustered in the central area. The most striking site is the Sea Castle, standing alone at the water’s edge. Originally built as a Phoenician temple, it has a history dating back centuries, although the current structure was rebuilt during the Crusades. Visitors can explore the castle to learn about the city’s history and enjoy panoramic views of the harbor and the town.
A five-minute walk from the castle leads to the Ottoman-era Khan el-Franj, a historic caravanserai. This traditional Turkish-style inn is built with sturdy stone and hardwood. It has two levels: the upper floor once housed guest rooms, while the lower level served as stables. Today, the building functions as a museum.
Adjacent to the caravanserai lies the Old Souk of Saida, a quintessential Arab market and one of the city’s highlights. Stepping into the souk feels like entering a labyrinth straight out of One Thousand and One Nights. The narrow alleys are lined with vendors and shops selling a vast array of goods and services, including blacksmiths, carpenters, butchers, barbers, tailors, and bakers—a microcosm of local life.
Among the many traditional crafts, Saida is known for its soap-making, particularly olive oil soap. Visitors will find shops selling artisanal soap, intricately carved wooden soap boxes, and even a dedicated Soap Museum. Another noteworthy site in Saida is the Grand Mosque, dating back to the 15th century, which stands as an essential historical and cultural landmark.
Tyre: The Pearl of the Mediterranean
Tyre, also known as Sour, is one of Lebanon’s most popular destinations for leisure and relaxation. It boasts the country’s most beautiful beaches and is home to the Tyre Coast Nature Reserve, a paradise for plants and animals. This spot offers some of the best views along Lebanon’s coastline.
As a coastal city, Tyre has a prominent harbor, which is one of Lebanon’s well-known fishing ports, famous for its rich variety of seafood. While Tyre is home to a mixed population, the harbor area mainly belongs to the Christian community. The houses here reflect Western influence, with colorful, vibrant facades. Among them, the 1750-built Saint Thomas Old Church stands out. Despite the damage it suffered during the civil war, it has been fully restored, leading the way toward the revival of the old town.
Tyre also contains two of Lebanon’s most valuable archaeological sites: the Al-Mina Ruins and the Al-Bass Ruins.
The Al-Mina Ruins, located near the harbor, showcase remnants from both Greek and Roman civilizations. A 130-meter-long Roman colonnade leads visitors into the ancient city, which includes the Roman marketplace, a Crusader church, and a 2nd-century hippodrome. The Roman baths on either side of the avenue are especially notable, though most of the structures have collapsed, leaving behind only scattered walls and columns.
The Al-Bass Ruins represent a larger Roman-era city in ruins. This site resembles a vast necropolis, with a 300-meter-long Byzantine road flanked by countless massive sarcophagi and tomb towers, mostly dating back to the 2nd century AD. Other noteworthy structures include the 1st-century Temple of Apollo and a 3rd-century church. After passing through the triumphal arch, visitors reach the highlight of the site: a grand Roman hippodrome. Said to be the largest of its kind from the Roman period, it could accommodate up to 20,000 spectators. This majestic arena is the crowning jewel not only of the Al-Bass Ruins but of all Tyre.
Southern Mountains: Land of Resilience
Lebanon’s southern mountains have long endured hardship, bearing the brunt of both civil strife and external threats. These mountains serve as a stronghold for the Druze militia and are home to the world-renowned Hezbollah base. Israel invaded and occupied this land in 1982, holding it until 2000 when the United Nations intervened to facilitate their withdrawal. However, peace remains elusive, with sporadic skirmishes continuing to flare up.
Traveling through the southern mountains is not only a challenging journey along treacherous roads but also carries certain risks. Our first destination was the safer Beiteddine Palace. On the way, we passed through the charming town of Deir El Qamar. This picturesque town boasts an ancient castle and several churches, as well as the well-known Moussa Castle Museum. Despite its fairy-tale appearance, Moussa Castle is a modern private construction with a romantic castle facade, housing a museum featuring wax figures and weaponry that depict local life.
Across the valley from Deir El Qamar lies Beiteddine Palace, our primary destination.
Beiteddine Palace
Beiteddine Palace, also known as the “House of Faith,” serves as the summer residence of the Lebanese president and, effectively, the presidential palace, as presidents typically reside here for extended periods. However, due to Lebanon’s ongoing political deadlock, the country has been unable to elect a president in recent years, leaving the palace unoccupied. This has provided visitors with an excellent opportunity to explore, even gaining access to previously restricted areas like the royal chambers.
The palace is an architectural marvel, constructed at the end of the 18th century by an Ottoman governor who spared no expense, employing some of the finest artisans from around the world. It took nearly thirty years to complete. The palace’s craftsmanship is exquisite, with highlights including the Turkish baths and the underground chambers adorned with intricate mosaics, now open to visitors as a museum. Initially serving as a governor’s residence and administrative office, the palace became the official presidential residence after Lebanon gained independence in 1943.
Mleeta Landmark
Mleeta Landmark, situated in the remote Mleeta Valley of Lebanon’s southern mountains, stands as a tribute to Hezbollah. This valley once served as the stronghold for Hezbollah’s resistance against the Israeli invasion. To understand the Lebanon-Israel conflict and Hezbollah’s history, a visit to this site is essential. In 2010, on the tenth anniversary of Israel’s withdrawal from this region, the Lebanese government invested heavily to establish this museum. Its purpose is not only to recount the history of the Israeli invasion but also to promote Hezbollah’s mission and inspire the public to maintain a steadfast spirit of resistance.
The museum features both indoor and outdoor exhibits, showcasing a range of weapons and remnants of aircraft and tanks. A wartime tunnel has also been preserved to vividly illustrate the history of Hezbollah’s struggle from this base. The highest point of the site is known as Martyrs’ Hill, which includes an observation deck offering a panoramic view of the valley’s battlefield. However, during our visit, the mountain was shrouded in thick fog, leaving us with only a hazy glimpse of the surroundings—a fitting metaphor for our journey through Lebanon, where clarity often seemed just out of reach.
