Brik (بريك) – a popular Tunisian snack
It’s like Vietnamese spring rolls but filled with egg and tuna or salmon, then deep-fried until crispy. They usually come with at least half a lemon, or sometimes a whole one, for squeezing. I had to try one as soon as I landed, and even as someone who’s not a fan of fried food, I was totally satisfied.
Harissa (هريسة) is a spicy Tunisian chili paste.
Mediterranean coastal countries all have their own versions of chili paste. Every country claims theirs is the best, and Tunisia is no exception. At least their produce is mostly from small-scale, organic farming, so the ingredients are top-notch. Every restaurant and even households have their own version. Pair it with some olives, tuna, or bread for a tasty appetizer. It’s highly praised, and you can even buy it canned!
Feeling full and satisfied, I spent a relaxed afternoon taking photos and watching wild cats stroll around the charming town. It was just named the 3rd most beautiful town in the world by the 2024 Timeout Global Best Towns list. Officially, it’s called Sidi Bou Said.
Bambalouni, fresh-made donuts dipped in white sugar.
But before we’d even walked 10 minutes, we spotted a bambalouni place that’s been around since 1932. Fresh-made donuts dipped in white sugar—pretty much the Tunisian version of those sugar-coated oil dough sticks. We exchanged looks, and since we were there, we all got one. The locals were so friendly, even telling passing tourists to check out the little stand up ahead for these treats.
The place was called Zrir.
Zrir is a sweet spread made from crushed sesame seeds, honey, and hazelnuts. Unlike traditional Arab sweets, which can be very sweet, Zrir has a more pronounced nutty flavor and is less sweet, with the sesame seeds left in a coarser texture for added richness. A small box of 90 grams costs around $6, and larger sizes are also available.
Later, a Tunisian friend told me that Zrir is actually a special food prepared for new mothers. Many families keep it at home regularly. It’s primarily made from sesame seeds, mixed with various crushed nuts, and usually includes a bit of olive oil and honey—preferably from mountain honey. Because it’s rich in protein and polyunsaturated fatty acids, and doesn’t contain added sugars, it’s quite popular.
Zgougou, a Mediterranean pine nut dessert.
Zgougou is a mousse-like dessert made with black pine nuts. It’s on the denser side but super smooth, and while it isn’t overly sweet, it’s packed with the rich aroma of pine nuts. Apparently, it uses wild black pine nuts and hazelnuts native to the region. You can definitely tell Tunisians love their nuts by the range of desserts they have!
The previously mentioned pine nut tea is available at the famous seaside terrace café, Café des Délices (also known as Café Sidi Chabaane). This specialty tea consists of a small cup of hot red tea with a few roasted pine nuts, giving it a delightful nutty aroma. It’s a unique and flavorful local tea worth trying.
If you’re looking to buy souvenirs, this town is probably the best place for shopping. After traveling through Tunisia, we unanimously felt that the selection of ceramic items and decorative pieces here aligns best with our aesthetic preferences.
We stayed that night in Carthage, a coastal town dotted with numerous ancient ruins. To be honest, I still haven’t fully figured out the administrative divisions in this area. Strolling south along the coast from the blue-and-white town, we eventually reached Carthage. However, even as the map indicated we were still within the La Marsa area, we had already arrived at our hotel.
The Carthage Golden Hotel, which opened in 1999, has a certain charm with its old-fashioned design that carries a touch of local flavor. The living room, in particular, gave me the strange but pleasant feeling of being in the home of an Arab friend.
From a bird’s-eye view around the hotel, we saw large clusters of bougainvillea in bloom. Driving through the area, we passed many intriguing street cafés and restaurants. The lighting, signage, and relaxed vibe of the visitors strolling along the streets gave the impression of being in a small European town.
Kairouan, one of the holy cities of Islam, is home to the largest mosque in Africa. However, it is closed to non-Muslims during Friday noon prayers when worshippers gather. Around that time, even the open courtyards of nearby mosques are covered with carpets for prayer. If you plan to visit, it’s best to avoid this period.
During our trip, we visited the Barber’s Mosque (Sidi Sahbi), believed to be the burial site of Sidi Sahbi, a companion of the Prophet Muhammad. According to tradition, Sidi Sahbi carried three hairs of Muhammad with him during his mission to spread Islam, and these were buried with him.
Unlike the solemn tombs I had expected, this site is bathed in sunlight, attracting many Muslim pilgrims. It also houses a Quranic school, making it a sacred but approachable place, deeply revered by Muslims without being overly austere.
This site is also a fusion of various religions and architectural styles. It features Islamic floral tiles adorned with crescents, Christian crosses, Roman and Byzantine elements, and domes from the Umayyad period—the first dynasty of the Arab world. It’s a must-see for those interested in architectural art and history.
Couscous (كسكس) is Tunisia’s national dish. It’s made from steamed semolina wheat, often served with a hearty stew or vegetables. It’s a staple in Tunisian cuisine and a must-try for anyone visiting!
It’s a staple dish made from durum wheat, ground into coarse granules while retaining some texture. Onions and garlic are sautéed in olive oil, followed by tomatoes and the spicy harissa paste, which flavors the stewed lamb. The couscous is then cooked in the meat broth until it becomes light and fluffy. It can be topped with dried fruits, green peppers, or other ingredients. In coastal cities like Sfax, fish-based couscous is popular. Each household seems to have its own variation of the dish, but the lamb couscous from Kairouan is particularly well-known.
Salad Mechouia is one of Tunisia’s iconic salads.
Salad du jardin, aka garden salad, is a fresh mix of greens and veggies that’s a total staple.
Salade du Jardin (Garden Salad)
The most basic version consists of diced tomatoes, cucumbers, and onions. Some variations include boiled eggs or tuna, but the Tunisian twist lies in the dressing, made with olive oil and fresh lemon juice. Occasionally, apple slices are added for a touch of sweetness. In many Tunisian restaurants, when you order a main dish, this salad, along with bread, is often served automatically as a starter.
Sorghum Porridge with Sweet Sesame Paste
The restaurant manager mentioned that this dish is enriched with milk or cream. On a slightly chilly morning, a warm bowl of this porridge is wonderfully comforting. Sorghum flour, which can be found in local supermarkets, makes it easy to prepare at home. As a grain rich in protein and dietary fiber, it serves as a nutritious staple. Adding a date soaked in olive oil enhances the flavor—this is also a classic way to enjoy dates from southern Tunisia.
Gargoulette is a traditional Tunisian dish made with meat cooked in a clay pot.
Various types of meat are placed in a clay pot along with onions, garlic, rosemary, potatoes, and other spices. Strips of bread dough are used to seal the pot, which is then placed in a wood-fired oven. The oven is sealed with mud, cooked over high heat for half an hour, and then slow-cooked on low heat. The entire process takes at least two hours.
Once out of the oven, the meat becomes tender and flavorful without being greasy, and the potatoes are said to absorb all the delicious seasonings. The dish typically includes goat, lamb, and camel meat, with camel being a specialty. It’s important to note that this dish must be ordered in advance to ensure availability.
Dates
Dates are one of Tunisia’s most important agricultural products, making it one of the world’s leading exporters. They are also a perfect gift to bring home for family and friends, straight from the country of origin. Around 70% of the world’s dates are grown in Arab countries, with Iraq producing the most. However, I personally prefer the varieties from North Africa.
Tunisia alone has over 100 varieties of dates, with the most famous being Deglet Nour, known for its balanced sweetness that is not overly cloying. In North Africa, dates are typically sold on their branches, especially in Algeria and Tunisia. Southern Tunisia’s desert oases are known for producing high-quality dates, particularly in cities like Douz and Tozeur. If you visit these areas, make sure to buy some—the price is usually around 2 USD per kilogram.
Although the dates are still packaged in simple cardboard boxes, the quality and value are exceptional.
Bsissa – Tunisia’s Ancient Multi-Grain Powder
Bsissa is a traditional Tunisian food with a history spanning thousands of years, also popular among Libyans. Modern nutrition highlights its benefits, as it is rich in calcium, iron, protein, fiber, and antioxidants, with anti-inflammatory properties. Bsissa’s reputation is growing globally for its nutritional value.
The basic ingredients include roasted grains or legumes, mixed with spices and blended with olive oil and honey. The most traditional version consists of roasted durum wheat and barley with cumin seeds.
Over time, many variations have emerged. In the southern city of Lamta, an annual Bsissa Festival has been held every May since 2001, featuring competitions for the best bsissa recipes.
Ingredients such as chickpeas, flaxseeds, and lentils can be added, along with nuts, dried fruits, date paste, or fig paste. The most traditional way to enjoy it is by mixing it with olive oil and using dates or dried figs as edible spoons.
